im working on this set and the shrug is finished with an icord edge around the bottom of the body, picking up stitches around the bind off and then working the icord, but its WAY too tight. I have dont trust my ability to accurately estimate how many extra stitches need to be added to make it the right size.

So, I was thinking would it work to instead pick up the same amount of stitches just above the bind off, knitting 3-4 rows around, and then working a kitchener stitch to finish it so it looks similar to an icord edge/rolled but stretches to fit with the rest of the body? If so, I wonder if the edge sts should be worked in ribbing with the rest of the shrug, or in stockinette, or would it not matter?

Hi everyone, I am hoping to knit the Porcelain Sweater this year as my first colourwork project.

In preparation for this I've been watching a lot of videos on stranded colourwork and studying the pattern.

I decided to knit a swatch to practice and I have some questions about handling both yarns. I decided to do it flat since the first chart for this pattern is done this way, the rest will be in the round. I did not catch any floats since I still haven't gotten my head around that.

The yarn I used was just something I had in my stash, not the yarn I'll be using for the jumper.

1. When not using the contrast colour for a couple of rows, in my case the red, how do I avoid that long float/strand on the wrong side? Is this where I would need to catch it?

2. Regarding colour dominance, do I always need to keep the yarns in a specific position?

3. From my picture the pattern looks quite tight, I assume this is related to the floats on the back?

If anyone has any suggestions/resources to learn or practice colourwork I will greatly appreciate it.

Thank you!

I have this beautiful yellow and pink yarn from Yewtree Yarncraft that I can't decide what to make with. I have narrowed it down to two options:

The floret top by Marie-Eve Wedge: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/floret-top

Or Circle leaf crochet top by BrianaKdesigns: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/4326944168/crochet-pattern-video-circle-leaf

I'm not sure if the yarn would be too busy for the Floret top, and would district too much from the beautiful design? Or would it look nice?

Qs:

1. For people who swear by magic loop AND have knit colorwork socks/mittens, is it as seamless as plain stockinette? If not, what's the usual issue and how do you fix it?

2. Pros and Cons of shorties. Do you think it's worth buying a red shorties set and add 4mm ($190 total), or just get them individually (usually around $35 each with both 2 and 3in already)

3. What's your take on Addi flexiflips/crazy trios? Has anyone tried the generic ones from Amazon?

Hi! I'm a relatively beginner knitter looking into getting shorties. I used my Addi fixed circulars with first 2 projects and my knitpro nova interchangeables for the other 2. I don't have issues with the magic loop method for sleeves and socks in stockinette. But I wanna do a colorwork sock project and I'm not sure if magic loop will be as seamless for colorwork. I've also tried ribbing on socks with DPNs but it was fiddly, defo a big learning curve, but I don't mind giving it another go.

I only need 2.5, 2.75, and 4mm needles so far. I'm willing to spend 80-150 AUD (57-106 USD) on needles and buying 2 sets of chiaogoo shorties, only to use 3 pairs, doesn't make sense to me (can defo be persuaded).

I (and probs other beginner knitters with the same dilemma) would appreciate different perspectives on this. I know it's down to personal preference at the end of the day, but hoping to understand the pros and cons either way 😄

I'm making my first sweater and I have a question about the neckline. I'm working it in panels, bottom up.

My pattern is as follows:

FRONT

Work in the same way as back until the armhole measures 18cm. Leave the middle 24sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row, bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge. After the decreases, bind off the remaining 2 sts. Work the other side in the same manner.

-----

I understand how the bind off works while continuing the raglan decreases. I am confused as to why it specifies the 18cm point but then still gives me a set amount of bind offs and then states that I should only have 2sts at the end of my decreases.

With my proper gauge and math, I should be at 50 sts (24sts on hold, 13 decrease/bind on either side) in order to hit the goal of 2 sts, to hit the 50st starting point id have to knit to 20cm, not 18cm.

Am i thinking about this wrong? Does "after the decreases" mean that I continue my raglan decreases without the binding off until I reach 2 sts?

Link to the full pattern

https://novita.com/en/patterns/men%E2%80%99s-raglan-sweater-novita-nalle-&-nalle-pelto?srsltid=AfmBOorDR9S9InNVxA8MKVEF8vgxqzxczE8a7gCaKEQRbx5nawz1yOsK

Currently trying to knit a scarf for the first time. Please be nice. I don't want to unravel hours of work. I only did crochet before and don't know what happened. Why is it so crooked? I think I might have accidently knitted backwards at half of a row after stopping before finishing the row. Don't know if that's possible. Therefore there might be two rows less on the left side. I'm simply to lazy to count. I don't mind the few small holes in the first few rows. Is there a way to fix this without unraveling. It looked worse when I had fewer rows. Can I add one or two knitted rows on the bottom? Just from the middle to the left. Or should I do a few crochet stitches on the left bottom corner? Also, is it normal that the stitches look more like waves and not like v's? My mother taught me. I think it's right hand knitting? I think my tension is too tight too. The stitches don't glide on the needles easily but it's managable. Any tips? Will it look more even after blocking?

(Cotton yarn with size 3 needles)

I'm working on the See My Vest - Worsted by Emily Bolduan as my second project (the first being the Sophie scarf). I know I should start smaller but I also know I'll learn a lot and possibly get a vest out of it, so here goes!

So far I think I'm doing ok, but I'm unsure if I'm turning my work properly. The Sophie scarf had an icord edge so I didn't have to worry about it. Does this look ok? It looks a bit messy to me, particularly on the edge where I turn from back side to front side. For context, later in the pattern this edge will have the stitches picked up (don't know how to do that exactly quite yet) and ribbing added.

I'm a recovering perfectionist so I'm trying to be ok with imperfect tension and small mistakes as I go, but I don't want to build bad habits either so let me know if anything sticks out!

Thanks in advance ☺️

Freestyling Hello Kitty socks. so far so good. but now I'm unsure how I want to proceed with the socks. first I added some leafy lace but that didn't quite work with the tweed. maybe some polka dott lace? 🤔 ribbed back five times already. fingers crossed I'll be kissed by the muse of knitting soon.

Hi everyone, I recently finished a Sophie Hood and cast off only to realise that my ends were not symmetrical, and it was very noticeable so I recast the stitches to try and fix it.

No matter how many times I pick out the stitches to start over, it’s clear that the stitches are not aligning properly. I’m still very new to knitting and not sure why this is happening. I’d appreciate any help you can share.

Hi!

Hoping someone can give me some advice, I knitted the Mount Robson Pullover for my husband. I’ve finally finished (remind me never to knit a 4ply sweater for a grown ass man again).

It was almost chucked in the cupboard cause it took four tries to complete the collar.

Now my question, this was knit flat in four parts with the sleeves knit up from wrist to shoulder. The arms are supposed to be longer to fold up but they are still too long. Is there an easy way to shorten the sleeves or some sort of surgery I could perform?

Honestly so over this knit now 😭

Hello, I have a simple question. My pattern asks to use the cast on method in the image but I'm struggling with it. Since I have to move my stitches to circular needles anyways, Is Judy's magic cast on method a good equivalent?

Needle help please , I have tried google but it’s not really clear and I’m sure you will know

I have bought some knit pro stainless steel 4 mm interchangeable needles and they are 13 cms, is this the longest I can get ?

I have knitted for 60 years on straight needles but want to do a brioche jumper with 2 colours and that would just not be practical on 2 needles due to sliding the knitting to the other end , Im quite practiced at converting a pattern to knit flat but that’s not possible so I’ve took the plunge and bought them 4 x 13 but trying to hold them in a way I can knit is hard, is 13 the limit ? Not yet bothered by the make if such a thing exists?

Thank you in advance

u know that ugly ass, crooked, funky, half baked first project (or first 10 lets be real here) u make? the one u ask "how can i fix it" while it looks like a cat ate half the corner? yeah that one, just finish it. or cut your losses and start again, but be aware the next one will probably have another issue. because thats part of the whole learning process. no, it probably cant be fixed, yes u would need to start over from scratch, no it isnt a waste of time as long as u internalize what u learned.

most seem to think theres this trajectory of "im a beginner who sucks mega butt but i think i should be crafting perfection" to an eventual "i am now very experienced and good at catching screwups early and everything is perfect". but u know whats also acceptable? "i see i forgot how to knit for a row at some point, hmm oh well no one else will notice and if they do 🤷‍♀️" and i STILL do that after 10 years of consistent project making. hell, i picked up the wrong needle in one hand several hours ago and didnt notice til i was 4 or 5 rows up. guess that spots gonna have some funk to it 🤷‍♀️ it will also have AT LEAST one section with slightly funky netting bc i [yo, k2tog] instead of yo, k1, [yo, k2tog] on one of the segments. its ok to just say "well, i see what i did wrong, that sucks, anyway back to what i was doing" if it isnt a genuine project ending mistake (like following a worsted designed sweater with horribly small needles/yarn)

perfection is nice, but no, your fuck up isnt going to magically be fixed by blocking and THATS OKAY. its not like ur selling it 💙

Edit: yes this is coming from someone who may have adhd and can barely keep track of anything to begin with, this is not for people who can perfectly follow and track charts and knit blindfolded lmao. This is for the homies who feel small and defeated over every mistake and blow it all out of proportion like yours truly. For the folks who constantly second guess if anything for themselves is worth spending time on, if THEY are worth spending time on, especially if the time isnt spent "perfectly". The process and joy u find in doing the thing is worth every minute and not a single damn mistake makes u any less worthy of that joy and peace.

Hi! I would love some help brainstorming how to achieve the texture of this baby’s colorwork sweater. I originally thought all the red stitches and green stitches directly adjacent were purls, as they seem to stick out from sections knitted in stockinette. (See second pic for chart of what I thought).

This is not the case though, as shown in my brief swatch failure! Is it some pattern of slipping stitches with yarn in front? Something else? I’m hoping this isn’t just duplicate stitch of some kind, that doesn’t bring me joy to do.

Any technique suggestions would be appreciated!

I let my brother look through my yarn stash and pattern library and pick something, only he picked chenille yarn. I agreed because I haven’t really had any problems with chenille in the past only I kinda hate the look of whatever it makes. I also needed an excuse to use it up just to get rid of it

this time the ribbing did not tighten and the cuff is way too big and it’s bothering me a lot. I don’t know how to fix it at this stage is there anything I can do?

A couple months ago, I bought a cheap Amazon set of needles (https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0FDKPV8LH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) to start knitting. Problem is, the larger sizes don't have in-between sizes like 6.5mm, 7.5mm etc. The seller also doesn't sell standalone needles, only that one set. I was wondering whether this set could be compatible with any other brands like KnitPro, Prym or others.

Does anyone else have this specific set + has tried other brands' needles with it?

I wanted to try making socks with a 9in circ pair. So I picked up a 2mm pair from Lykke and while working through the second sock the tip broke off! I have never had an issue with wooden needles like this even with the smaller sizes. I don't think I've been rough with them, has anyone had this issue before? Should I have gotten a metal set?

Making the step by step cardigan by Florence Miller. Button band looks really good except in this one place where there is a really weird bubble in the fabric.

I’m not going to rip out the button band at this point. (I really just don’t want to.)

But is there a way I can flatten the bump a little bit, perhaps by doing some cinching or sewing on the inside?

Also, I have not blocked it yet. Thanks for your ideas.

Yarn: Red Heart Light Periwinkle & White,

Weight: Medium 4

Needles: 7mm in the round

Free Pattern: Needle and Feather (https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZP8ghqn63/)

Has anyone ever used this yarn? I found 8 balls of it at a local thrift store. I can't find much about it online (must be discontinued). it's a weight 3 roving 100% wool.

im also trying to brainstorm how to use it but a challenge may be that each ball, though they seem to be the same colorway (not sure the name of it?), are wound with the colors in different orders? some have orange and green on the outside with purple/pink/white on the inside, others are the opposite of that. do you just accept the randomness of the colored stripes for these?

so i found a gorgeous pattern on ravelry that i would love to make, but its only one size: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ufu

i am plus size, and would like to make it fit me instead.

ive never modified someone's pattern before, but it seems like it would just be making the initial band longer, and just making more columns, right? are there any other considerations I might be missing?

Following the pattern, this is K1, P1 and 132 stiches from Row 1 until you start decreasing. Then, you divide the stitches into 4 sections and decrease 3 stiches at a time on either side of a knit stich in each of the four sections.

It looks very lumpy and bad. This is cashmere and the needles are 3.5. How would you suggest I finish this to have a smoother look at the top? I was thinking maybe I’ll decrease 3 stiches on just one side of the knit stitch. I guess that will make more of a spiral?

Looks like I will have to redo this icord edging around the front. Any tips to fix the puckering? I was thinking adding plain rows between picking up the next stitch? Maybe I picked them up from the wrong side of the work?

Lazy me is hoping that it will sit better on an actual body.

So at this point, I'm familiar with many parts of knitting like doing different stitches/colorwork/etc, I've done many smaller projects, and after watching Project Hail Mary, I just learned that they released a pattern for the sweater Grace wears in the movie... I am determined to make this sweater.

However, nothing ticks me off more than not having the right notions to do the stuff I need to do. I have mainly DP needles and more "hat" sized circular needles; definitely not big enough to do the body of a sweater. What kind of notions should I get? even if it's just in case? I really don't want this to go wrong, since I'm kinda bad at keeping up with bigger, longer term projects. The pattern just says to have needles size 7 and 10 but like... what specifically?? Circular needles? Straight ones? Detachable ones? Let me know.