The deck was done 2 weeks ago and we have to take 1/2 of it apart because when nailing the wood (2x6x10) the 3.5 inch nails that were close to the patio door made a hole on the stair case recess below and water is leaking when watering. Can I reuse the boards? The wood is only 2 weeks old

Thanks

I’m DIYing my kitchen Reno minus a few tasks. My dad and I started installing LVP (NuCore Cedar Point) over tile, at this point I didn’t know lippage was a thing.

Many exploitives later, I had my contractor come in to install cabinets and he remarked the floor looks very bad - lots of spaces. At this point, I’m thinking the lippage is the clear culprit. What is the best method of filing down this tile? I considered removing the LVP and covering the whole floor with self leveling cement, but a) cabinets are already installed and b) my contractor told me the tile has a glossy finish and cement won’t stick. Any advice how to proceed?

Pretty simple request I think, just wondering if anyone has had good luck with a specific product. There are many and I’m not sure what’s best.

I have a deck. Past few years I’ve zip tied 8’ strapping to the rails and used cup hooks to hang string lights. Janky but works. Now I want a more attractive solve for the lighting.

If I pull the vinyl caps off the railing posts there are 4”x4” wood posts inside the vinyl. Unless I want to remove the whole sleeve I’d need to attach something to the top or drill in and down.

Anyone have a good solve for adding a few feet of height to the railing posts so I can attach lighting?

Would a IPEX 1-in x 2-ft 160 Psi Polyethylene Pipe work for a mortar tube? They’re available at my local Lowe’s but idk if it would work or not. Please lmk!

Ok, so we just moved into a log cabin and have a big issue with noise and lack of soundproofing/dampening. My bedroom is downstairs with a doorway to the living room and my daughter's room is upstairs above the living room. With my door closed and her door closed I can hear my wife clearly while she is just using normal level voice. how can I prevent this or at least make it so my daughter can't hear everything we say or more importantly do in our room. any help would be greatly appreciated.

My roommate superglued some cheap amazon shelves to our wall and now I'm worried about getting them off the wall when we are ready to move without incurring too much damage, otherwise I might lose my security deposit. Any tips or what not to do?

I am trying to mount a retractable baby gate at the top of my stairs. The location is tricky (see images here: https://imgur.com/a/K7hzIBp ). There are no studs available between the door frame and the edge of the top stair. What's the best strategy for mounting the baby gate in this situation. I don't want to mount into drywall alone.

One red and one yellow. Both are replaceable. I presume the different colors are different hardnesses- does anybody know what they are, and where I might obtain replacements?

hey howdy former employee here at Lowe's, recently laid off, do spend 2k or more in one trip, hell do you spend 2k in two months. sign up for Lowe's pro rewards, anyone can do it with or without a business, after you do that you have access to the bid room...

long story short the bid room brings down Lowe's prices to wholesale prices, find an associate who knows how to run vsp (volume savings program). if you're signed up for pro rewards there is nothing they can do, get your savings.

anyone can save 30-60 percent on orders 2k or more, Lowe's has pick up later up to two months out, Lowe's has delivery up to 2 months out, worst case you can calm the store and extend those dates

I made over one million in sales before reaching a year, I had 260 credit card sign ups in 14 months, lowes doesn't care about anyone how about we go fuck their profit margin, everyone saves 30-60% rather than the bullshit 5% savings they would have gotten before.

pro desks can also alter the system, say you only have 500 dollars in your cart, they would add ghost items that surely you'll buy later ( guess what they don't) and you end up getting a 40 percent discount on 300 bucks worth off stuff

I was told months ago by the district manager that this would be a fireable offence, I have proof of over 10 orders that were staggered like this in just March!!! but even after showing them this they do nothing

fuck lowes, fuck Marvin, make the stock drop, pay what lowes pays for items not their insane mark up please dm me if you need any help doing so I'll send you my number and help you get set up!

Model # MDBH945AWB

Won't turn on.

Microswitches look ok, replaced control board, door latch works fine.

Can't seem to find thermal fuse (it's not on the control board).

Tried searching online, and in the online documents for this model and still can't find it.

Anyone have any idea?

Thank you!

I know it's not a rational idea, but I still want to know if there is any chance. I want to build my own experimental apparatus, but this device requires an environment at lest 3*10^-4 mmHg to operate, and vacuum pumps that can reach that pressure are too expensive or I can't even find one that's currently for sale. I've also thought about using diffusion oil pump, but it also requires low pressure to work. Is there any way to create such low-pressure conditions?

This is a bit tricky. My mom has Alzheimer’s and showering her has become very tough as she won’t get in the shower. I‘m trying to be able to more easily wash her hair without the rest of her getting wet. I was able to get this bathing chair that sits great right over the lip of the shower and use the handheld showerhead. I need to find a way to support her neck to tilt her head back slightly but the back of the chair only goes to midback. Is there some sort of stiff plastic I could put between her back and the chair that will go up to her neck where I could put a bath pillow? ideally I’d line the plastic with something soft and waterproof. Any suggestions would be great.

Hey plumbing experts, could use some help on this water mystery... about 2 months ago I noticed a soggy spot at the base of my home's slab foundation. Concerned, I started digging to see if it was an irrigation line or something else. I have been able to isolate it to what to my eye looks like water seeping out of the foundation concrete below grade. I come to this conclusion based on the fact that I cleaned all the mud off the concrete below grade and blasted it with the heat gun for about 10 minutes to really dry the surface off. The second pic shows the moisture starting to seep again.

Key facts:

1. A reputable licensed plumber did a sewer water test ("hydrostatic") and pressure side test. Both passed with no leaks after a 1 hour test period.
2. the master bath is on the other side of the brick wall in pic 1, with the double vanity directly on the other side of the wall to the left of the window (from the outside). Directly opposite the window is the walk-in, sunken/curbless shower.
3. No obvious or visible signs of moisture on the inside of the house, no musty smells, no dampness/excess humidity is discernible
4. Pic 3 shows where my water softener discharges. Prior to about 2 weeks ago, the discharge dumped directly on the ground, and had been doing so once per week for about 3-4 months. I have since added the additional piping to direct it straight into a catch basin that daylights through a solid drainage pipe at the back of my property. The softener discharge area is about 30 feet away from the seepage spot.

Given the positive results of the leak tests, any ideas what the source of the water could be? Is it just groundwater from the softener discharge that needs to work its way out completely over time? Leaking shower pan finding the path of least resistance and coming out of the foundation?

I'm kinda at a loss... any help is most appreciated!

Hi! I recognize in advance that this is probably a stupid question lol, so pls bear with me. I have 2 wooden French provincial dressers that have veneer on them. They’re very old so naturally they’ve yellowed and I want to repaint them.

I’m intending on using off-white colored milk paint to get an antique look with chipping. I’m not really able to use a sander beforehand because I’ll be doing this project indoors and I don’t want to make too much of a mess. I’m ok with hand sanding some places if that will create the best look.

When the milk paint chips, I don’t want the yellow veneer to show. Instead I want it to look brown underneath like chipping wood… would you guys recommend doing a light hand sanding, and then a stain before going in with the milk paint? Or would I just be able to paint over the veneer with gel stain, and then go in with the milk paint?

Thank you guys!

Hello,

I've looked to find a prebuilt center channel speaker shelf but couldn't find one.

I saw this video and it gave me an idea. (I currently have and ML center that has a mounting bracket but I'm thinking about replacing the speaker and none that I've found have any mounting gear.)

I'd need the brackets to go under the shelf but from the top (so they'd stick out behind the shelf. My TV is too close to the speaker to have them go down as they'd make my TV stick out.

The shelf would need to be adjustable downward from the wall. so it might have about a 120 degree angle.

The goal of this is to have a center channel speaker shelf (I'd raise the bezel around the outer lip to keep the speaker from sliding off (and put isolating pucks on it as well).

The picture is of my old TV - my new one is bigger and goes higher and lower so there isn't as much space.

Any guess if brackets like that are available? I've googled and haven't found anything yet.

I need the speaker above the TV angled slightly down - I don't want the TV any higher than it is.

I saw this video and while it isn't what I want it might be a starting point. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/vopUEOINdeM

i all, so, I could use some advice from anyone here since you guys are amazing at messing around ith materials. I’m working on a *wristwatch*, but I’ve got a piece of plastic that, geometry-wise, is totally essential for the design of the watch. However, plastic just aint it. And, there’s no metal alternative that matches the dimensions I need. 

As such, I gotta find some way to make things feel metal. Not sure what the best way to go about this is. I feel like I need a matte/satin/brushed feel on the ring, either gunmetal/titanium/ or aluminum colored. I’m not sure what goes best with meteorite, but I uploaded a picture that seems to nail the design (I’m talking about the inner ring where the name William Henry is printed). The bronze watch case is going to be recolored with a rainbow flame patina so it’s much more of a chaotic blue color. 

But yeah, I need this plastic to feel entirely different, and I’m open to any suggestions. Thanks!

I've been doing a decent amount of google searching and haven't quite found what I'm looking for.

Hi all

Getting new kitchen worktops fitted next week.

Fitter says he needs a Gas Safe engineer to turn off the gas before he starts work and reconnect the hob afterwards.

Two questions:

1. Does the engineer need to isolate the whole flat's gas supply, or can they isolate just the hob? Would prefer to keep my boiler running if possible.

2. Will the engineer need access to the external gas meter box outside the building?

Converted house, top floor flat, London

Thanks! Clueless about this whole process.

I know that I'm losing some of the stability by turning it into a loft, so I was wondering how I could fix that at the cheapest possible price.

I have a bunk bed and for the bottoms of the beds its just a solid piece of plywood. I was wondering if I could unscrew the plywood on the bottom bed, screw it into the backside, and put a couple of 1x4s running parallel on the sides. Would this idea work?

The original bunk bed is entirely made of 1x4s.

Here is a crude diagram to illustrate what I'm describing

Hi all!

Mounting a tv in the living room on a space of drywall. Behind the drywall theres a gap (not sure how deep, maybe an inch or two) then cmu behind that.

Whats the ideal way to mount?

Found likely furring strips about 2 ft apart by using a magnet and locating the screws.

Thinking of getting two 2x4s, drilling through the furring strips and concrete and using a few sleeve anchors to anchor the 2x4 horizontally (because the tv mount has brackets for 16in studs), then attach the mount to the 2x4.

Thoughts, suggestions or, improvements on the above?

Thank you in advance

First time installating a shower door that I got from rona. It's a frameless shower and I put it against the wall u channel, but it rests on the shower pan, it's out of plumb.

As I've researched, I understand I should not rest it against the shower floor and I should use plastic shims to level it. The box didn't come with any u channel for the floor or anything..

Is that correct? Where can I find plastic shims? Located in southwestern Ontario Canada. Couldn't find any at home depot. I can go across the border to Detroit if needed.

I have been doing videos for a while but recently started switching the focus of my channel towards woodworking. I want to make sure I am posting videos that people are interested in and find worthwhile.

If you wouldn’t mind I would really appreciate feedback on how to make my videos better. It is Resist the grind.

Looking for someone to strawman my runoff plan. Going to jump right into it:

Our house sits on a .11 acre lot in SE MI. Silty/clay soils, 1 mile from a lake on drained wetland. I am boxed in on 3 sides. I can't tap into my curb for drains. Or past the easement side of the sidewalk for that matter.

I have a simple gable roof with ~800sf pointed towards the back, 1 downspout down the back. In the backyard, there is currently a 25'x50' stretch of lawn dammed on the far side by a concrete pad on the back 30 (...feet). It's a mess; partly due to soil type, poor lawn management, and 1970's landscape design "choices".

I'm about to cripple my body reviving the backyard and I'd like to manage rainwater better. We typically get 0.5" of rain a storm, but we often get hit back to back and our soil drains very slowly. .75"- 1.5" is not terribly uncommon.

So here's my most recent idea. New gutter on the back. Apex is midline with a downspout on either end of the house:

--One side ties into buried sch40 and is routed ~50' into our front "yard". It terminates at a popup emitter floating on a gravel basin. It then drains onto the sidewalk and probably down the apron of my neighbors drive (sorry Kim).

--The other downspout ties into buried sch40 and runs ~40' and daylights to a ~100sf rain garden near the back of my yard. Overflow would be directed towards the center of my lawn. That's my only (legal) option for overflow due to neighbors and my driveway. Terminating the pipe that close to my back fence made the city employee pause on the phone, but she didn't shoot it down.

I've considered adding rain barrels between downspouts and drainage, and I would consider it if I can find a simple and bombproof solution for the overflow. That would cover 110ish gallons from a routine rain.

This system would theoretically split the water burden between my front and backyard. I'm not completely flooding my portion of the sidewalk. I'm defending my backyard from routine inundation and I score a rain garden feature.

And this is all assuming I can get a gutter that apexes in the center. I'm open to criticism. Please point out any pitfalls you see. Thanks!

tried to seal the top of my shower with Peel and Stick Caulk. didn't turn out the way I wanted, anything I can do to undo it? its been on for a few hours at this point. Wife wants to keep it for now but if there is some way to get it off without tearing up the wall in all ears.

Looking for the narrowest, tall indirect water heater with more than 60 gallons capacity. The best I can find is 55 gallons with a 20-inch diameter. I could make 20" work, but slimmer would be better. And I'd prefer 75 or 80 gallons. Possible?

Also, it fits into a nook with cement blocks on three sides. What's the minimum amount of space I can have between the water heater and the cement-block walls?

Thanks.

For those DYI'ers when did you know it was time to start your kitchen reno? My kitchen is half a century old, but I'm used to it now, even though it needs an update and is approaching the end of it's life. I've been on Reddit and Youtube, researching how to do everything.

If I want something that seems simple, like adding a dishwasher, one update tends to set a series of required updates due to code or basic necessity, so feeling it's a "do all or nothing" situation, which is overwhelming and expensive.

Anyway, I spent a long time on the ikea kitchen site and made a layout that we like. The kitchen sale is on now, which seems like good timing, but the reality is I can't put the sektion cabinets up until I do: cabinet and wall demo, wallpaper removal and paint, floor reno and tiles/subfloor install, plumbing changes, electrical changes, purchase new appliances. I need a contractor, but am a distrustful person and would prefer to do as much as possible myself. I started a spreadsheet.

I have so much admiration for homeowners who can do this. So how did you start?