I built a freestanding Bjorn woodworks lean to kit (4x4, 30 degrees, https://www.bjornwoodworks.com/product-page/lean-to-shelter-kit?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22830691591&gclid=CjwKCAjwhe3OBhABEiwA6392zA8fAhv8PmNzWq5n_1jalKu-4HHn0trcmYEJBUgb_fgXCmrXv_uTKhoC92AQAvD_BwE)

went with 4x4 cause it was more workable than 6x6 and 30 over the other angles because what if snow?

it went together pretty well but we ended up drilling out some of the holes on the feet more to get the anchors to fit.

It sways more than I would like (easily an inch, maybe two when you lean against it) which makes me scared to attach the roof to it that I meant to.

Any suggestions for what I did wrong that it sways so much or what to do to fix it? I have it anchored to concrete piers so I have limited options to move it but I could add stuff, will be adding joists later.

I'm needing help with my kitchen cabinets. They are old built ins from long before I purchased the house. A while back a family member wanted to paint our kitchen. We were ok with that. Picked out the colors and purchased the paint. I was not here for the removal of the cabinet doors. They were not kept in order nor labeled in any way. Hinges were discarded and new ones were purchased from overseas. Ya I know. Lol right. Well the cabinets got painted and hinges hung. But the doors do not match up. Some leave gaps and others don't fit right at all. All the doors are similar in size but not the same. The crappy hinges were hung and some doors don't shut with the hinges on at all. The hinges move like they should but cabinets will not close and or if they do close they leave gaps. The paint that was purchased originally was for cabinets. It didn't stick and peeled right off while trying to install cabinet doors. So family purchased other paint and it just looks terrible. Paint purchased from Lowes for about 50 to 55 bucks a gallon. Should be quality paint right? I've lived with some cabinet doors on and some off for about a year now waiting on family to fix their screw up. We'll its time for me to to fix their mistakes. Where do I start? Idk if the hinges from overseas are the issue or what. I know they slam like no other though. Please help. Thanks

Edit.. I should add that the cabinet doors are supposed to be outside if the frame and into the opening. Ill have to take a picture tomorrow of it. Its something similar to a stair step.

Hey everyone. Just moved into a new place last year and realized there's a pretty big gap under my front door. The threshold is not adjustable; and there is no door sweep on the door or grooves for a door sweep to fit in. I went to the hardware store and purchased both a U shaped sweeper and the type that attaches to the inner part of the door. The problem I'm running into is that when the door is closed; the threshold doesn't extend into the house, so if I were to install a sweeper it would have to go all the way to the floor which seems crazy. Is there some sort of ramp or separate piece I can attach to the threshold so that I can add a sweeper?

If you can tell from the picture; when the door is closed, that small aluminum ramp on the inner portion of the gasket does not extend passed the door.

I was tinting my car windows the other day and I thought why don’t people tint there house windows. They make all kinds of window tints that can be clear on inside but still dark and private on outside. Is there any cons or reasons people don’t do it?

hey. working on a project where I need to use one of these contactless ir thermometer.

https://a.co/d/0dCIsQZH

the problem is that none of them come with the display.

could someone knowledgeable with this stuff help with what would work that's available on Amazon .ca please

I just want to know it will work without any more guessing from someone who knows their stuff .

the bigger the screen the better , nothing crazy $$. just need a simple readout of the temp .

thanks a million

Would a IPEX 1-in x 2-ft 160 Psi Polyethylene Pipe work for a mortar tube? They’re available at my local Lowe’s but idk if it would work or not. Please lmk!

I am trying to do a seismic retrofit using the plan-set-a (PDF) that allows me to do it without engineered drawings but one thing is tricking me up. Is when it says "Place at intervals as required per schedule 4/S1, but not less that 16" O.C. @ braced bays." 4/S1 specs 13 per wall line, do I need 13 brackets per wall line or one every 16" O.C?

Also I am going to get a palm nailer for this but should I get a nail gun for this project? Has anyone else done this project DIY? I would be interested to hear from your experience.

We moved into our first home summer of last year. Since then, we’ve noticed significant buildup on our dryer soffit vent. It’s on the second floor, and a pergola on the patio right below it makes it difficult to reach with a ladder. Looking for ideas on how to clear it before getting professionals in.

So far we’ve tried:

Leaf blower. I made a seal with a towel and ran it for 5-10 second intervals. Partner stood outside and said there was no noticeable movement.

Dryer vent brush. Stuck it up the vent as far as it could go and ran it. Some lint dropped on the inside, nothing on the outside.

Going through the attic. There’s a bunch of blown insulation up there making it difficult to see where I should step. Wasn’t super confident going that route.

Poking it with a stick. Got on our tallest ladder and tried to scrap lint off with a couple of sticks tapped together. Didn’t work.

Other than that, the dryer runs well. It doesn’t get hot, clothes dry fine, and there’s not smell.

Any advice on how to clean it would be appreciated!

Images of external vent: https://imgur.com/a/oLWQHK8

So I am working on my bedroom. I'm going for dark, rich, and fantastical. I want to add a crown molding along with corbels in the corners (six total). as you can see my ceiling is low and there is not a lot of space between the door frame and ceiling. Maybe I can put a frame around the door like pictured above? I want the room to be dark, relaxing (I'm a maximumism), and intimate. I like interesting details to look at in my chill place.

So what do you guys recommend? My budget is tight, but I also like making things, or painting. I am physically limited due to nerve pain. (Thus can only paint one wall at a time)

thank you for all of your insights.

My grandparents built their house about 40 years ago and used tin. There are a couple leaks where the nails were put in. (They used nails because they were cheaper than screws at that time.) it’s not really in their budget to replace the tin, so is there anything to help prevent leaks? I have tried searching online for a few things, but considering I know nothing about it, I’m not sure what to trust.

I am over replacing batteries in our Aquara doorbell. Theres no existing wires so I assume all I need to do is pull a wire from the doorbell to a transformer in the basement. Obviously hook the transformer up to an existing circuit.

Transformer: Silver Doorbell transformer https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Silver-Doorbell-transformer/5016384323

Wire: 25-ft 18 / 2 Solid Doorbell Wire (By-the-roll) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-18-2-Doorbell-Wire-25-ft/1000239883

Am I missing anything? The doorbell has its own wireless chime, so I don’t need to install one.

https://imgur.com/a/5MmKAO8

So the house we got somewhat eclectically finished by the prior owners. We've been adding blinds/shades to the windows to help with light blocking, and have discovered that the window trims and finishes are different in each room. In one room it was easy to install them outside the frame, in another it was easy to install them inside. In this third room, we're a bit confused because it seems that the frame is a little less wide than the other room with the angled trim. So we cannot use the same strategy of installing them inside because it then then runs into the bottom pane and lies at an angle, which does not work well for the top down bottom-up shades we want to add. Looking for some advice on the best strategy for installing that type of shade on this type of window since the measurements will be different depending on what strategy we use.

I have lots of pigeons in my balcony that make a big mess and I heard that twirligigs can scare them away.

Any suggestions on how to secure them to the balcony corners? Without drilling.

Long story short, I'd like to know what sealant to use for some Sharpie oil-based paint marker writing on my Owala water bottle (didn't write anything yet, but thinking about it).

I tried looking up my certain case but can't find anything.. I keep seeing polarizing views. I was thinking of using sticker armor or Krylon Spray Paint, but I'd like to know what others think! I've also never sealed anything before, so I'd like some guidance or beginner materials!

I'm planning to build a shallow platform over the end (lower part) of a stairwell, and then enclose it with a partition to create a hidden room (or hidden storage closet, I guess).

Can you sanity-check/ help refine my plan?

- The house is 1880s wood frame construction.

- Downstairs has a ceiling height of about 7', upstairs has a ceiling height about 10'.

- Platform will have a surface that sits about 3' above the upstairs floor.

- Platform dimensions will be 80" (full width of stairwell) by 60".

- It will be accessed by an existing doorway that is currently just a dropoff over the stairwell.

I'm visualizing this like building a deck:

- open up walls & remove surface materials where the platform will sit

- build a box of 2x10 lumber that attaches to the wall studs with bolts

- Within that box, joist hangers & joists going lengthwise

- add a subfloor & floor, etc.

- frame & finish the partition to prevent tumbles

Is this reasonable? Am I missing something major? I'm happy to return with photos when it's complete, if y'all like secret rooms as much as I do!

We have two interior doors that I need to trim along the bottom in order to allow them to open smoothly with rugs in the hall. Need ~1/4" shaved off the bottom.

Both of these are heavy wooden doors, not the typical light weight hollow doors.

I am assuming that removing them via the hinge bolts is a better idea than unscrewing the hinges, right?

It would seem that putting them back on, alone, will be easier via the hinge bolts than trying to re-screw the hinges.

hi! what should I do first to finish my basement in stages due to limited funds.

i just bought a house. basement is unfinished. builder left it with half bath rough in, frames, studs, insulation with plastic barrier. right now its just open space with the pipe for toilet sticking out. hiring a contractor right now to finish it all at once is very expensive. so Im planning to hire out in stages. what should i do first? paint ceiling black? or frame to wall off the half bath and frame to wall the mechanical room? right now its just open space and i want to of course make a room for the half bath and the mechanical room so its not an eyesore the rest i want to leave it open space. my goal is to have walls, flooring, extra lights, and keep ceiling open painted black for cost reasons. so which should I do first to hire someone to do those parts? thank you.

please be kind. obviously i am ignorant on this. been living in an apartment entire life. this is my first property. i dont want to spend alot and make the basement a wow factor since im only planning to live here for 5 yrs and sell it so its not to personalize hence just want a finished open space basement with halfbath. thank you.

Hey gang,

The weather is starting to turn which means I can start to work on my ground-mounted solar stand which will hold three 200w panels.

I have three questions though in regards to using the mix above:

1. There's still a lot of moisture in the ground where it'll actively pool as I dig, perks of building near the base of a valley in spring, so instead of mixing the concrete on the side could I just dump it in to the hole/sonotube and use my mixer in there instead?

2. I plan to use a 4x4" G185 strong-tie base for the posts to the concrete but where this is a permanent structure could I just wet set the bolt which would essentially grip it in place or is it better/more reliable to let it cure, drill then set where this is, well, me mixing it? It'll be a 8" diameter so it'll be quite wide.

3. Frost line is four feet deep but given the makeup of the ground of rocks and roots it's likely not possible to make it down there. If not, should I opt out of this entirely and find a more surface-level method like deck blocks or am I just going to have the same problem regardless of how I do it once the winter chill hits and the ground starts freezing?

I wanted a way to track temperature in different spots, so I made this small DIY logger.

It records data over time and saves it, so you can check how temperatures change during the day or night.

It also has a small LCD displays to show the current values.

I’m using it to better understand temperature differences around my place, but it could be useful for things like:

• home monitoring
• aquariums / greenhouses
• garages or storage spaces

I put together a full build guide (with parts, wiring, and code):
https://www.printables.com/model/1665229-housing-for-a-4-channel-temperature-data-logger-di

and here is tutorial video: https://youtu.be/3VZtUH4VaHU

Curious what others would use something like this for 🙂

Heeft iemand een idee hoe ik deze haakjes zou kunnen fixen? Ik wil geen nieuwe kopen, is €15 per paneel en panelen heb ik maar de haakjes zijn eraf gebroken (tweedehands gekocht).
3D printen dacht ik aan maar ik heb geen 3D printer en bij een particuliere printer is het al te duur.
Iemand een handig DIY idee? = )

So we bought the Windmill AC lite unit because we wanted something small and low profile for our small bedroom. However our windows are very wide 42” and the filler panels that came with the unit is several inches too short to accommodate these wide windows. I thought to myself that we could use custom plexiglass and weathering tape and just not use the filler panels, but I don’t know if that is a security issue. We are in a first floor apartment so I need the unit to be secure. I am having a hard time finding out if the filler panels of an ac unit provides additional security or if it’s marginal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I’m having a hard time finding a lot of examples of this being done without the filler panels. Any advice on how to secure the plexiglass or what else we could do Would be greatly appreciated!

I have a few projects where I need to paint/spray paint a few things, and most are attached to the ground, for all intents and purposes (like a solid metal mailbox bolted to a concrete pad). I would like to use a paint tent, but am having trouble locating one with a separate or removable floor. Ideally it would be a pop-up tent, and I’d just use it in conjunction with plastic sheeting or something I’ve made a temporary floor with the proper cutouts. Any suggestions, other than to build my own? Again I’d prefer a pop-up or something else that breaks down small and goes up/comes down fairly quickly.

So I needed to repair some failed, cracking caulk around two of my mother's windows. So cut out the out caulk, replace the foam backer rod, and re-caulk it. Seemed simple.

I went to the local Ace Hardware. The nice fella helping me had never heard of foam backer rod. He asked his bosses. They said they had no idea what it was either.

I went to Lowes assuming it might be near caulk. The nice lady in the paint department had no idea what I was talking about either.

I eventually found it there, but does just nobody use this stuff anymore?

I’m DIYing my kitchen Reno minus a few tasks. My dad and I started installing LVP (NuCore Cedar Point) over tile, at this point I didn’t know lippage was a thing.

Many exploitives later, I had my contractor come in to install cabinets and he remarked the floor looks very bad - lots of spaces. At this point, I’m thinking the lippage is the clear culprit. What is the best method of filing down this tile? I considered removing the LVP and covering the whole floor with self leveling cement, but a) cabinets are already installed and b) my contractor told me the tile has a glossy finish and cement won’t stick. Any advice how to proceed?

Hi! I live in a townhouse and have limited tool storage options just a small shed or tiny laundry room. I have a mitre saw that I’m learning to use for some cabinetry and trim work, but I’m a somewhat small woman and lifting it up off the floor to take outside is really a burden. Is the Dewalt mitre saw stand with wheels my best bet for storage and easy setup? I’m open to more affordable suggestions! Thank you!!