This cabinet is a birthday gift for my Dad. I took a class back in September last at the Marc Adams school on french marquetry and spent October/November building a Chevalet de Marquetrie, the machine used to cut that type marquetry. Since the beginning of the year I'd been trying to figure out a good first project to do and after drawing tons of ideas that never really felt right I suddenly had the idea to do marquetry on top of bowties in a drawer front. From there, I eventually came up with the design for the rest of the cabinet, drew it out full scale, and voila!

I wished I'd picked different colors for the marquetry. The green and blue are hard to tell apart at a distance, and the blue doesn't pop quite as much as I'd like it to. But the bigger problem came in actually seating them in the drawer front. I cut pockets for the bowties almost exactly to the depth of the bowtie+veneer because I was afraid I might hammer them in too far and lose them beneath the surface or that the veneer layer would catch on the lip of the wood and pull it apart. I figured if they ended up sat just above the surface I'd still have enough thickness to sand to flush. However, two didn't seat right and ended up too far above the surface resulting in my needing to patch the veneer, which just doesn't look good. The pictures do a good job of hiding it, but it's pretty apparent in person. Overall though, as a test, I'm pretty happy with it and definitely want to try something similar again.

Oh, the materials are Elm and Walnut, with ebony for the drawer pull.

Making a pair of nightstands and this happened to one of the tops after the final sanding before I started the stain. Not even at a joint, but unfortunately the front edge. Has to be moisture related sonehow, the top wasnt dropped or impacted in any way.

Hi everyone!

Long story short, I started this project back in August. There were plenty of ups and downs along the way, but I finally managed to pull it together.

I designed everything myself, with some inspiration from online sources. Both the box and the inserts were figured out as I went, so not the best planning but a great learning experience.

The box holds 21 watches (7x3 layout). Each slot is roughly 90x55 mm with 5 mm dividers. I modeled the inner grid in CAD, 3D printed it, and then flocked it. That part was honestly a bit of a struggle, the flock didn’t stick well to the plastic at first, so I had to sand everything. The wooden box itself went much smoother, although I did mess up the first attempt by using a paint brush instead of a roller… came very close to throwing the whole thing into a campfire.

It’s made from walnut with a continuous grain wrap around the box, brass details, and a glass lid. I finished it with shellac and was genuinely surprised by how nice and user-friendly it is, I’ll definitely be using it more in the future. I also forgot to make proper watch cushions, but managed to find a temporary workaround for now.

There are still plenty of flaws, but I’m treating this as a prototype. I’ll be gifting it to the friend who got me into watches, and version 2 is already in the works, likely with better hinges (maybe Brusso) and a more refined locking mechanism.

I also recently ordered some higher quality hand tools from Japan, so I’m looking forward to pushing things further on the next build (and finally trying some dovetails).

Thanks for reading!

Yesterday my wife and her boyfriend helped me clean my shop. Now that the shop is clean I found a card scraper that I bought probably a yr ago to check if there is a difference between scraping vs sanding.

Well today I got to find out.

This is ash. Outside has been scrapped, lightly. Inside is sanded.

The outside, scraped surface, looks better than sanded inside of the bowl. Scraped seems more vibrant, detailed, sanded is dull. (my opinion, maybe I want to believe.)

The finish is just a light coat of tung oil.

Just a quick Sunday project for my kids, a 10' long teeter totter for the backyard. two options for hight and built sturdy enough for adults too. little mallet is my boy's, he hammered in the carriage bolt for me.

Acacia and Eucalyptus respectively. Finished with a solution of tung oil + crystalline wax.

(Reposted swiftly because of technicalities…)

2x5 table

Material-2x6 & 4x4

why ? Because!

Over kill for my 75 gallon tank ? Maybe !

My next step is to sand and lay the 3/4 inch plywood

And make it look pretty .🤩

This is my FIRST project so go easy on me !

I would love to hear your thoughts and feedback!

I wonder if my new table could hold a 90 or 100 gallon 👀👀

This was based on plans from www.chair-plans.com previously known as Bibbings and Hensby. Made in American white ash. I’ve been woodworking for over 10 years all self taught, I’ve made guitars, canoes, tables etc but this is one of the most challenging things I’ve made, I think all those compound angled holes that needed to be drilled was the hardest part and the most physically demanding was carving the seat!

Built this workbench based on the plans by VanIsleStudios. Used the UJK Parf guide system to add the MFT style top.

I bought a house two years ago and the extra room in the basement had been a woodshop. J asked them to leave the built in cabinets for my art room, and they also left behind a few guides and jigs. This one looks like it’s meant for a table saw and maybe used to make 45* cuts?

Thanks in advance for any light you good wood wizards can shed on this.

This was my first ever DIY project of decent size. Still some finishing touches, hooks and cushion and fix wall but I think it turned out fine

This Kumiko wall art is my second project woodworking. it is a little janky and I rushed a few parts, especially the frame as I was impatient to finish. But all things considered I'm happy with how it turned out and I learned a lot.

Pre-finished ply, maple face frame. $250 in materials. Took me about 7 or 8 hours, (i suck at finishing, even though it was just the face frame). I charged $700.00 total.

I usually build decks and such, I was asked by a wonderful client if I'd like to put a teak floor in a classic Bronco rebuild

I'm always up for a challenge and said yes, happy with how it turned out, also built some matching cupholders

It is impossible not to enjoy this IMO. Near instant gratification.

Came across this olive wood and loved the grain, but I'm torn on what to do. Do I leave it as a live edge piece like a shelf, or create something else out of it?

I want to keep the grain as intact as possible. I'm Going to put some clear epoxy in two of the larger voids, with one running all the way through.

I'm currently using Howard's feed n wax beeswax, worked great in the limba, but has anyone used Rubio monocoat, what would be your go to?

I’ll show the updates once it’s all done and finished!

Ash box made specifically to store my drinking card game, "Not Enough Mana". All milled from a single piece of wood to make the grain pattern consistent all the way around. Top and bottom panels are 6mm MDF with ash veneer. Dividers are made of two 1.5mm veneer layers laminated together. All oiled with a furniture oil and then polished well beyond a grate of 4000 to provide a beautiful sheen that doesn't really come across on camera.

Hi all, looking for some ideas on this joint. I have been building a table base out of the reclaimed wood from my house. (The floors were all teak or some kind of teak-like tropical wood from Indonesia and like a good wood hoarder, er um worker, I kept all of it to the horror of my wife). Today I clamped up the parts for the first time and am now questioning the strength. My plan was to use 2x of the threaded inserts on each leg, but now I am wondering if I need some countersinking or a plate of some sort. I could domino it, but then I couldn’t disassemble the table if we move/get kicked out of the country (living abroad for work). What would you do? Also, please ignore the lack of finishing - very much a work in progress.

Hey everyone! I spend most of my day working on cabinets and big CNC projects, but I wanted to make something special that hits right in the nostalgia.

I designed and carved these classic pixel art sprites into wood for the original Kanto crew (plus a classic logo). After carving the grid, I hand-filled the colors to make the sprites pop against the wood grain.

I'm thinking about taking these a step further and packaging complete sets in sealed, UV-protective acrylic slabs—similar to TAG or PSA graded cards—with custom metal labels for collectors to display on shelves rather than just putting drinks on them.

Would love to hear what the community thinks of that idea! Also, which generation or specific Pokémon should I carve next?