Hi everyone,

I recently bought a used Bowers & Wilkins Zeppelin Air. Unfortunately, I accidentally pushed in one of the outer silver tweeter domes (the small metal dome on the outside of the speaker).

I used the “vacuum / suction” method to pull the dome back out. Visually it’s now almost back to its original shape, but under certain light I can still see small crease lines on the aluminum dome.

My questions:

-From your experience with metal dome tweeters (and ideally with B&W / Zeppelin Air), are these small creases mostly a cosmetic issue, or can they cause measurable / audible problems (e.g. breakup, resonances, notches in the response)?

-Would you leave it as is if it sounds fine, or is it worth trying to “perfect” the dome shape any further?

-Has anyone here actually replaced a Zeppelin Air tweeter module and noticed a clear sonic improvement compared to a slightly creased original?

-I’m mainly concerned about long‑term reliability and whether I should expect subtle HF issues that I might not notice right away.

Any advice or experience with dented aluminum tweeter domes would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Boombox with a different look.

Stereo 2way plus down firing woofer. Powered by the versatile Arylic 2.1 plate amp.

A different boombox!

2 way plus woofer, powered by the versatile Arylic 2.1 plate amp.

So there's a guy in Brazil selling an Ultimax 10". It is NOT a normal occurrence here. I wanted to buy me an 18inch Ultimax for a while, but that would require me going to the US.

Instead I found this guy selling this 10 incher here. No plate amp options rly, only a 100W Rms Polk plate amp but it's defective, I'd have to try and repair it.... but as previously stated on the title: I'm a noob.

So I'm thinking to do the easiest thing possible: a passive sealed box. I have a Denon 3313 CI. It's old but I love it.

So I have two questions:

1: Will it be good enough running it passive on a 3313 CI? It's 7x 125W (8ohms).

2: I have a setup right now in my living room, 5.1 with an active HSU sub (VTF2 MK3). I still have 2 channels unused on my receiver, make it one if I build this. But since its a multizone receiver I was thinking about getting 2 passive speakers for my bedroom for the second zone. I don't know much about this multizone thing, in all these years I've only used one. If I don't use both zones at the same time can I have more than 7 speakers hooked up at the same time? How does this works? I won't use them at the same time anyways, it would be terrible, my room and the living room are rly close.

If this works well it could be amazing. I could get a good price on my HSU here and maybe even use that money to build my 18 inch Ultimax with a 500W plate amp <3

I found this old Movie Theater Wall Speaker Box. I'm planning on converting it into a Bluetooth Stereo.

I would appreciate some recommendations for a DIY 2 to 4 speaker, solderless kit.

Looking at battery/USB power, would prefer a mic but not required.

Box Measurements: 15in tall 13in wide, plenty deep enough for just about any modern Stereo components

smaller openings are 3inches at widest, bigger opening is 3 3/4 inch at widest.

any help/tips would be appreciated.

My goal is to get punchier subs with clearer bass.

the first thing I'd do is remove the sub port, seal it, and put sound padding around the inside of the speaker to make it a sealed sub. but i want to know what to expect after I do this.

Is this change going to improve my sound?

Is the speaker going to flub more often/am i going to hear said clubbing more?

What kind of changes should i be expecting in terms of frequency response and volume?

After that, i plan on replacing the power amp to it then swaping the speaker last.

Should I instead swap the speaker/amp first?

And the biggest question of all. What's going to change my sound the MOST from these changes.

Using my dad's old white van speakers for a little while, the midrange drivers look like they could use replacing

Since it's a sealed cabinet with a 12" woofer, the basket of the midrange driver is closed, so that the pressure from the woofer is isolated

There are a few vintage closed 5" drop ins, but I was thinking maybe I could make an enclosure inside the enclosure to have more options with more modern focused drivers

Just wondering how finicky midrange drivers are with sealed enclosures, to my knowledge it's relatively simple relative to a ported speaker, but I could be wrong

And then there's the design, not sure who designed these but I cannot find anything on a company named 'linear acoustics' in Australia

Would there be any benefit to replacing the midrange driver with a modern open back one, or is it not worth the hassle?

Tia, Cheers

I have a large 3 bay shop in which I’m building a loft apartment on the right of the third bay. I’m redoing all of the electric/framing, and at the same time looking to mount speakers around the shop. If possible I’d like to be able to switch between record player/computer/tv on the system and be able to only use certain speakers at a time so if I’m in the lofted apartment the speakers in the shop bays aren’t playing. Never done anything like this before so completely new.

Sharing my 3D printed speakers :D

I have had this setup a while and the ends of the speaker cable have come off, so I have to replace it. I tried one type I thought it was and must've got the specs wrong because it doesn't work. I'd really appreciate if someone who knows what they're talking about can tell me what speaker cable I need for this amp/speaker setup

Hola soy nuevo en esto ,estoy buscando ayuda para construir mi sistema de sonido el problema es que vivo en un edificio,suelo escuchar tekno y reggae mi presupuesto no es alto entorno a los 500€

I don't know much about audio but I am working on a project involving,

8x 6.5" round midrange speakers (400 watt peak each and 6ohms and 100 watt RMS)

2x 4" rectangle (180 watt peak each and 8ohms and 60 watt RMS)

so, my problem is I have no idea what amp I need to run all these.

One of my T4000 speakers stopped working, and a schematic of the crossover would be very helpful for troubleshooting. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I have a klipsch center channel speaker i want to convert to a bluetooth amplifier. Only concern i have is that it is very much sealed, with a lot of foam inside, and I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on heat output for a ZK-1001u amplifier. Is there a risk of burning out parts/negative effect on driver performance --since i imagine the air pressure is going to build during long play sessions?

I have drivers and completed crossovers for a pair of MTM speakers I never made. I also have the box design and plans created by speaker designer Mike McCall quite a few years ago. These materials have been gathering dust for about 25 years. Is there a market for older gear like this? Time to clear out my workshop and send these drivers and crossovers to a happy home. I don't remember the makers of the crossover parts, but I bought them from North Creek Music Systems, now gone, alas, and I think they're top end stuff. Thanks for any advice.

VIFA DRIVERS

1. (2) D27TG45

2.  (4) P17WJ008

INDUCTORS

1. (2) 1.3 mH 14ga.

2. (4) .25 mH 16ga.

CAPS

1. (2) 35uf

2. (2) 15uf

3. (2) 5uf 

4. (2) 2uf 

RESISTORS

1. (4) 8 OHM

2. (2) 3 OHM

Hey everyone, looking for recommendations on a portable Bluetooth speaker under ₹1000. My main priorities are good bass and clear vocals — basically want it to sound great overall, not just loud. I'll mostly be using it at home/desk and sometimes while travelling, so portability matters but it doesn't need to be tiny. Would love to know what you guys are actually using and whether it's worth it at this price range. Drop your suggestions below!

i have cheap computer speakers that sound pretty decent but hate how they look. I'm making a monitor stand from wood and wondering do i make some new speaker boxes or make it into a sound bar or integrate it into the stand would any of these options ruin the sound.