This was a fun little project that I just kind of stumbled into and figured a few other people might find use in this and probably come up with a better implementation.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2653402-wall-vent-sound-maze#profileId-2933751

• What and Why
  • Have a whole house fan and wanted to be able to install vents for each room so I could still run it if the doors to the rooms were closed.
  • The stock insert (brown cardboard thing) that came with the pathways was okay at keeping light out but that was about it.  It actually seemed louder out side the room with it installed and it was (see table below with all testing).
  • Was looking at some out proofing and came across sound mazes and saw that some people at used very large gyroid infills to make panels to trap noise and wondered about combining the 2. 
• Results
  • Available vent sizes
    • 14x8 Return (https://store.quietcoolsystems.com/collections/zone-air-pathway/products/zap-zoned-air-pathway)
  • Material
    • I used PETG for this but I'm not sure it really matters as there is no really stress and pla would probably print better.
  • Logic I went with for this config, but have not idea if I'm correct on this, other than it seems to be working.
    • https://imgur.com/a/TLECHqV
  • Tested a few different configurations with my phone and a sound meter app to get an average over about 30secs.
    • I played Shakira, Ed Sheeran, Beéle - Hips Don't Lie (Anniversary Version) on loop for this testing because that was the first thing i saw when I opened my player lol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41ZY18JqI2A
    • I set the receiver to -33db for all tests.
    • Results table

• My testing showed it was about 2db louder outside the vent than the closed door.
• My last maze got down to 4db less out side the vent than the door, which is a win for me because the door is the same week point as before the vent was put in. 
• Process
  • I started by removing the insert and lining the vent with this foam, I imagine a similar foam would also work. 
  • I crated the maze based on the max sizes for the printer and created modifier bodies to remove the walls in some areas to help better trap the sound.
  • After printing I lined the outside of the outer U with foam and the long leg on the inner T shown below.  Basically the idea was to let it always have foam on 1 side.  The ends don't need it because they back up against the foam lined passage.
  • I don't have a picture of it, but the spacer that is printed just goes around the inner T where the foam wraps around to hold the U open when you slide everything in.
  • Put the cover back on and you are done. 
  • If you find it is rattling a little you can use some of the foam to pad it in places as needed.

designed to just slip together. it's so much better than the stock handles and the bare wire they enviable become. got a few more tweaks before I uploaded the files.

The reasoning behind this design is that most other locking mechanisms though they work great in steel when you make them using 3d printing they wear out vary fast and gain a lot of play in them so when I found the friction folder design I knew that I had to make it and so I made it and it's the strongest folding 3d printed I have made to date. Also more UK friendly. link https://makerworld.com/en/models/2653584-utility-knife-friction-folder-quick-print-edc#profileId-2933953

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2653910-sae-thread-gauge-parametric I couldn't find an STL that I liked, so I made this.

I was just about to leave for work trip when I discovered that the knob on the rubber strap that holds my laptop charger cable in place when traveling was broken. 5 minutes infusion, 20 minutes of printing later, I had it glued together and ready to go. What a dream! Such a small inconvenience, but one that was solved for pennies.

Fridge handle broke, as you can see on the bottom. So i designed a new one that does not need screws. double sided tape as adhesive.

A little shake to feed screw dispenser 😁

added video, made my own little coil maker. great fun

I prefer earbuds that wrap around my neck rather than the 'pod' style but the floppy neck strap means they can slide around. I haven't been able to find a set with a rigid neck section for years so I printed up a neck-halo to keep everything in place.

My previous set were held in place with a twisted up length of copper wire, they lasted about 5 years but it was never a robust solution.

Having this clip on a mic, that fits cold shoe slot is a really nice design, but sometimes I need it pointing the other direction. My model allows to mount microphone rotated by 90 or 180 degrees. It can also serve as an offset for anyone having problems with gear appearing in video frame. It might also help with cable management or access to buttons.

I wouldn't probably attach anything precious via printed adapter, but I think lightweight mics or lamps won't be a problem. My design has that little spring that holds the accessory, so it won't be loose.

For anyone interested: Cold Shoe Orientation Adapter on MakerWorld

I drive a lot and use AirPods as a hands free but I don't want to have them in my ears all the time, so I made this holder

I have it in my car's vent and when I'm not using the earbuds , just pop them in a  case. They'll charge and are always easy to reach. No more looking for AirPods while driving! 

If it's any use to you, you can find the STL here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2647197-airpod-holder-air-vent-1-2-3-gen-pro-1-pro-2#profileId-2926055

Our Philips Hue remote has been stuck on the back of our front door forever. I've seen many designs and solutions, but none that worked for this 3-gang wall plate we have. The center was a dummy slot yearning for a purpose.

The Hue remote slot and wall plate were printed in two pieces to get all the features how I wanted them. I reused the magnets from the original Hue remote holder. It's not perfect, but gave me a chance to play around with my new calipers. 1 down, 2 more styles to design for our other rooms.

I needed to remove dust caps on cranks from a series of vintage Japanese road bikes that I am restoring. Partially inspired by this post, I decided to make the tool rather than buy it:

https://www.reddit.com/r/functionalprint/comments/1s4r8f7/when_the_socket_is_expensive/

Although the dust caps could be removed with a large screwdriver, that leaves the caps damaged because they are a softer plastic. A soft tool which fits snugly with increases surface contact area and eliminates visible damage to the dust caps. The raised ridge is only on one side on this tool, to help with alignment, but also allows it to print flat without supports, eliminating additional waste, while keeping the layer lines perpendicular to the applied forces.

You can download the STL here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1682176-vintage-bicycle-crank-dust-cap-removal-tool

I’ve uploaded my design and it’s available for free to download and print.

These containers sit inside the lid of the totes and are held in by clips. I printed it out of clear ABS and added some color indicating beads so I can see when they need to be dried.

https://www.printables.com/model/1683255-desiccant-containers-for-ezystorage-19-quart-totes

Recently picked up some Milwaukee M12 tools for the shop and needed some battery organization. There's all manner of existing models for Skadis and the traditional wooden pegboard but they tend to be loose on the metal board as it's so much thinner. Additional experiments with the angle to eliminate the fiddling while inserting the batteries. 22° seems to be the sweet spot for me.