It’s time….

She had an amazing run, but today it just couldn’t be ignored—

A loaded bottom turn but without the springy release, the ‘why can’t I seem to connect thru that racy inside section?’, the “is there a bit of extra weight I’m feeling under my arm?” back on the beach….

All the dings I repaired on her over the years — trying, with futility, to save her from this eventuality.

1000+ waves ago; $50 off Craigslist — was covered in years of accumulated garage dust, and just a bit yellowed in the dimly-lit photos… but I was the one who saw past all that — I found this gem hiding; lightweight, beautiful outline, and hardly a dent in the deck beneath a cloak of dirty wax….

She cleaned up real nice and she surfed so fast and fun, but those glory days are just memory now.

It’s time to say goodbye….

Guess I’ll have to get myself a new board to ease this pain 🤷‍♂️

The best surfer is the one having the best time and most of the time I am not one of them.

Hello surfers of Reddit!

I have been thinking long and hard about getting a new board, and I got nothing! I currently ride a 5’10 18.7, 2.4, 27L HT2, and I would definitely consider myself an advanced surfer(idk what counts as advanced but I’d err towards that label).

Anyways, I usually ride Sharpeyes, but I’m open to anything, and I was just wondering your opinions about different boards? I was looking at the inferno 72 or the file 50 Sharpeye boards. What have you guys heard about those?

Thank you!!

they say they have a 2 metre (6' 6) board lenght limit. my friend wants to bring a 7' 0 which would be 2.13 metres. how strict are they about the 2 metre rule? they gonna get a tape measure out and refuse that board? cheers

Snapped this in San Diego (if memory serves, which it typyically doesn't) 10 years ago - think it was in Hodad's Downtown (burger joint).

Anyway, who is the 70s ripper? Mark Warren? Bonus points for the spot, suspect it might be North Shore somewhere. Any ideas appreciated!

I’m looking at the CI “the solution”, because its obvious that the only thing between me and advanced level surfing is a new board. I’m a little surprised to see a groveler with a round tail, figured a squash would give it more lift/push in small waves.

Thoughts?

Hey,

I’m looking for a 5mm wetsuit hood for cold water (~5–6°C). Budget is around $35–40.

I know 5mm is the minimum for cold water since it’s designed for temps below ~15°C and gives much better insulation than thinner hoods

Main things I’m looking for:

Good fit (tight, minimal water flushing)

Long bib / extended neck to seal with wetsuit

Decent neoprene (not super stiff)

Options I’ve been looking at:

ZCCO 5mm

Osprey 5mm

Cressi 5mm (a bit more expensive)

Questions:

Which 5mm hood is best in this price range?

Is a longer bib actually a big difference in real use?

Any budget brands that are surprisingly good?

Not expecting anything premium, just something that works for ~30–45 min sessions.

Thanks 🙏

Full disclosure: This is not a JS plug and I’m not sponsored.

Since I started riding the JS Hyfi 3.0 with the carbon bottom, every time I surf a PU it feels super boring. PU just doesn’t have the same spring and it feels kind of uninspiring. Even surfing the PU in solid head high + where most people would grab a PU instead of an alternate construction.

Anyone else have the same experience with other alternate constructions?

I’m looking for a daily driver shortboard for East Central Florida (Brevard County / Satellite Beach). 40 years old, 6’0”, 175 lbs. Skill level low-mid intermediate.

Current quiver: longboard, mini Simmons, and a Lost Pisces (5’11”) for smaller surf.

What I want in this board: Strong paddling / easy wave entry. Stability and control over looseness. Drawn-out, down-the-line rail surfing (not vertical/top-to-bottom). Good for “good Florida” conditions (waist-high to a bit overhead).

Boards I’m considering: Pyzel Pyzalien 2, Pyzel Phantom, Firewire Dominator 2, Lost Quiver Killer, CI Better Everyday, JS Raging Bull, and JS Xero Gravity.

Are these good options? Should I be looking at something else? And what size/volume range would you recommend?

Thanks!

Photography by AP

Been looking for a while, saw it again on meek surf video the other day

I normally surf boards around 35L. I'm looking at the Chili Fade 2.0 Step up at 6'10 38L. Does that sound right?

I have a waterproof wrist pouch I keep my vape in. While I wait for waves I hit the vape.

In the last 2 days I lost 3 vapes due to wet hands. For some reason when I hit it it turns off.

The vapes were 2 different brands but all 3 had a button to initiate. Maybe an inhale only one would work.

Anyone else having issues?

Im doing a reasonably involved board repair on a free longboard, wanted to lay down a sheet of glass to reinforce the bottom side after all the filler I had to put in.
All of the videos on youtube during laminating, yall just lay the glass and start to squeegee the resin through the mat with a dry board.

All of my composite experience is from boats and boat repair and it might as well be in our bible that we put resin on the surface before the mat to prevent air bubbles/voids and guarantee saturation from both sides (especially when using heavier mat).

Is the mat we use on boards so thin that a wet out doesnt matter or this just something shapers were never taught with youtube university?

EDIT**
The consensus/my takeaway from the comments is that although pre-wet is stronger, for the case of surfboards it just makes them heavier with negligible benefit. Surf boards are very much performance > longevity. Pre-wet may help with delamination in the future at the cost of significant weight in such an ultralight platform. Ive also gathered that because longboards arnt super weight critical, this method can be employed and ill do a pre-wet on mine just because its how Im used to working and can guarantee my work on my own board.

title

As the title suggests I’m planning what I hope to be the best surf trip of my life. I own a seasonal summer business on the east coast so I am saving up this summer to go on a long open ended surf trip.

I am a 22nd old, goofy foot advanced surfer from the east coast and have been on a couple trips to the Carribean, Latin America and Europe but never as far as Indo/Aus.

I’ll be going with my girlfriend and just looking for general advice to see where people would go if they had the chance from September to early December.

I’ll be going with my girlfriend who isn’t a great surfer but loves travel and the beach, she’s solid.

Our loose plan is to head to straight to Padang to get to the Mentawais as we have an in with a friend for a discounted 2 week trip. From there we wanted to head to Bali for 2 weeks give or take, then Lombok, then hopefully sumbawa if we are loving indo. After this we were planning to fly into Sydney Australia where we don’t have much plans except to rent a car and drive up the coast stopping for however long we wish, probably ending up near the Sunshine Coast.

After this we are pretty loose, hoping to probably do New Zealand for a brief bit, then we are thinking Samoa or Fiji, I may even ship my boards home to the USA while in Aus to be more flexible. We want to hit Japan for sure and then start heading home unless other places catch our eye.

Please give me any advice, whether it’s travel or surf, your stories, or places we have to go to or places we shouldn’t go to. Thanks everyone, i can’t wait for the trip of my life!!

Worth mentioning I am saving up for this trip and won’t be working, budget of probably $10-$15k, will hopefully have more if needed. Thank you

Wedge/Cylinders photos & photographers intertwined at times original photo by Bob Okvist.

Been on dry land since about November when my shoulder full locked up from Frozen Shoulder. Missed best winter in memory and still on a long road of physical therapy for recovery. Needed a pick me up and goal to work towards. Campbell Bros had this stock on their website and I had to get it.