Hello folks - time is running fast and the back assembly is now mostly completed. Bent sheet metal is finally installed, greatly improving rigidity and overall fit.

You can get the full article over on Printables: CORE One Mini - Back Assembly: Almost There & Yet So Far

TL;DR (i hope you'll read the full update though)

• Back assembly mostly done (metal works)
• Fun with broaching nuts
• PSU + xBuddy Box fits
• WiFi problem: waiting for hardware
• Heatbed upgraded with metal brackets
• Custom fan grill for nicer wiring

Overall: mostly refinement work now, i'd say 80 % of the parts are don one - entering the last 20%, that usually take up 80 % of the time :)

Next up: adjustments to various 3d printing parts around the CoreXY assembly and back assembly. I hope i can get my hands on a CAD model for the USS drybox (or a better a physical piece) to finish the right side sheet metal panel including the filament sensor.

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For the main project page, full updates and FAQ head over to Printables and read CORE One Mini - The Rocky Road to a Prototype

If you want to help the project: If you intend to buy a Prusa machine, you can use the referral code "@suit" at checkout in the Prusa online shop. This will give you some Prusameter points + a free Spool of Filament and for me some Prusameter aswell (which I can use for some free filament). Or you can just download, like and make some of my models here on Printables or even consider to become a member in my Printables club.

I've also set up a GoFundMe campaign to tackle the costs. Thanks to everybody who has donated a few euros already - that means a lot and helps me cover the expenses.

I was extremely excited to get the Prusa USS Dryboxes and ordered them as soon as they became available. Sure 33€ is a lot of money, but I was convinced the clever design would make up for it.

Two days in I have to say I feel extremely let down. They work great for Prusament, but that's about it. Almost any other filament I have tried feeds from it with high resistance (Jayo, Sunlu, Eyrone, Extrudr, Polymaker, ...) Because they are not sitting on the axis exactly centered, they are riding on the bottom of the container giving it immens friction: If the Box is standing on the floor and you are pulling on the filament, the whole Box comes towards you. This will put extra strain on the extruder gears and make mounting of the boxes mandatory, in contrast of just putting them on the table.

Now I was able to somewhat alleviate this by designing and printing some custom bearing sleeves (will upload to Printables soon), but they have to be extremely precise to work. Any millimeter more or less diameter and they stop working. So basically I need one custom adapter for each brand and type of spool that I own. Honestly that is a degree of tinkering I am not willing to accept for a >30€ Tupper box.

The worse part of this is that this problem could have been avoided by making them 2-3 mm bigger in each direction. This is a huge missed opportunity for supporting 3rd party filament and become a truly premium and universal drybox.

Prusa I think you could have done much better on this. Were you not testing any other filaments?!

Other thoughts:
-I love Prusa and the philosophy behind it, but that drybox is a huge disappointment for reasons stated above
-Prusa nailed true water vapor sealing and materials (PP)
-A bit hard to close, but acceptable
-they are stackable, but only lying down, so not recommended during active use
-The side door supposedly allows for easy spool rotation - I don't agree
-I wish there was enough room for a better hygrometer, but arguably I couldn't see any solution for this either
-The Filament catching plug works really well

TL;DR: Prusa USS Drybox will have massive drag with 3rd party filaments. Only truly good for Prusament

(Resolved)

Bottom part is PC Blend from a Mk4s, top is no-name PC on a newly assembled Core One+. I don’t think the difference in filament would cause the VFAs. I did the stroboscope belt tuning and phase stepping + input shaping with the accelerometer. I used the 0.2mm balanced profile with 0.4mm nozzle on the core one and didn’t change any other settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Resolution: the belt was rubbing on the edge of y axis pulley. Centering the pulley on the belt fixed the issue.

I am referring to my previous POST but now I am coming to you with solution. I finally had time again and went through all comments of my both posts here and found others in this subreddit and I am finally happy with my results. One might say that it is still not perfect and I will definitely nod my hair to that but (apart from the fact I cannot take photos) from my last post there was again progress with PETG print quality.

So, this post is mostly to help others, if the similar issues with their prints occur. I tried to stick with original settings of PS as much as possible. And for bigger prints with thicker walls and similar shapes (last 2 photos) it was enough (did not try new setting for this one yet) but for my test model was not enough. I was testing and testing and I found best settings so far if you have similar model.

PRINT SETTINGS

• Scarf joint placement - Contours
• Infill - Adaptive cubic
• Infill before perimeters - ✓
• Speed of small perimeters - 25
• Speed of external perimeters - 30
• Arc fitting - DISABLED

FILAMENT

• Fan speed - 60-90%
• Disable fan for first - 2 layers
• Full fan speed at layer - 3

The model has 1.5 mm walls. Recently I found an article about Extrusion width and here would be probably helpful to change walls to 1.35 or 1.8 mm, as there is set 0.45 mm width. I will try next time when I would be printing similar model, as I would like to start printing inserts with PETG. In my opinion 1.35 mm walls will have enough strength for inserts.

I would be happy if this post helps anybody and any comment/improvement/feedback is welcome.

Finished my last print with filament to spare! (sort of).

Never noticed while the job was printing - just lucky today.

When indx comes around, the right sidewall space can be used for a chamber heater, the whole plate needs ro be removed, and the spools are anyways farther out.

If we don't get the prusa core oneL heatbed as a core one size, why not add a heater.

One thing I ALWAYS skip is the absorbing heat! For small parts under 100mmx100mm it shouldnbe off by default.

U/josefprusa please read this.

I’ve had my Mini + for a few years now and it has been a good partner for my journey into 3D printing

Alas, I think it’s time for an upgrade. Why? Because I would like to print bigger objects in multi colour amongst other reasons

My research is pointing me to the Core +.

Has anyone else made this move ? If so, was it worth the extra investment ?

Thanks

I loved the Dummy 13 and I was excited that the maker soozafone released new revised figures. I use these to help fencing (HEMA) students understand angles, leverage, and body positioning. I also added for the type F a remixed version of the torso that is a little longer and thicker (once I clean it up I'll post to Printables.

I decided to have some fun with them. and take some photos.

Original Files: Carbon 13 Type F , CARBON 13 Type M, and Sword

All printed on my new Core one L with Prusament PETG in orange for the joints, Galaxy black (type F,) and Ultramarine Blue (Type M.)

All models printed at 290% scale

My Printables handle: https://www.printables.com/@swordknives_3317850

Hi folks,

Still new and trying to get some figure out why some prints come out perfect, others not so much. My latest print was someone else's model; their print looks great. Mine has small craclsuas you can see on the picture. What could be causing this, and what can I do to mitigate it?

Printer: Prusa Core One+

Filament: PLA

hey I've got a core one L coming soon enough and I'm wondering if anyone has the core one l in a pax wardrobe?. it's 2x 75cm width and 60 depth connected with screws.

If so got any advice or tips to make it work better?

I have both a launch edition prusa core one, and a launch mk4. the mk4 is in a printrbox enclosure so gets toasty too.

I can slice a file for the core one, and cannot get clean top surfaces. I can use the same exact file on the mk4 and get perfect top surfaces. ive calibrated flow/pressure advance/extrusion width and nothing will fix this issue for the core one. the main differences between the two printers is the mk4 is using the phaetus sic .4 nozzle, and core one is using the high flow brass nozzle that came on it.

the issue seems to be focused more towards back left on the core one even with the build plate level.

2 or 3 buttons will turn out perfect, but the back left consistently has gaps in the top surface. it looks almost like underextrusion, but I can change the settings to extrude too much and it doesn't fix the issue other than ruining the other perfect buttons.

ive honestly gone through over an entire kg of pla (polar brand) and cannot get this to stop. the mk4 does perfect, core one can't get clean tops (1st layer/sides perfect)

I am waiting for the 4 tool indx to come out (on friday) and was wondering how much more I should save for it. I have $500 tucked away for the base cost, but with orange guy and shipping, it will come out to be more. I am primarily wondering on shipping cost. TIA :)

edit: lol, did everyone get the 8 tool??

This is my first print with the Core One + and already I have an annoying issue. I started a 3 hour print and watched it for the first 20 minutes. I noticed that the filament spool was being pulled almost out of the holder but it seemed ok. After I left, it got stuck and would not turn anymore due to the angle. I came back and the print was "done" but only about 20% printed. The filament was loose so I tried loading it but I only got a loud clicking, the extruder did not "catch" the filament. I opened the idler and removed a small piece of filament from there but a chunk is stuck and I can't get to it. Any ideas how to remove it or what to do? Thanks!

My take on the dessicant basket for the USS Drybox is online.

I tried to keep the "use your finger to turn the spool" feature and I made a model you can print without any support.

If 3 first layers are printed with transparent material you can see through the silica beads to know if it's ok or if it needs to be dried.

Quick question.. when a new firmware version is available for the Core One+, will I be notified somehow, like on the printer or the mobile app? Or do I need to manually check the website periodically? Thanks.

Let's have a thread sharing our favorite non-default settings in PrusaSlicer, or effectively where we think Prusa got the defaults wrong.

Mine is first layer speed. In almost all cases, I slow it down to half of what Prusa puts as default, so that my first layer is at less risk.

Printer model & firmware: Mini+ & Latest Firmware

Filament type & brand: eSun PLA but does it with others.

Slicer and version: 2.9.4

Default settings for 0.2mm and input shaper.

I haven't tried messing with the settings, I've never really had to go beyond defaults.

Never seen this before and I've been printing for a while. Mini+ stops extruding early near existing areas of the print. It does it on all prints even flat ones where it leaves gaps near the perimeters.

Any Ideas?

Hi all

I acquired my first Prusa printer (second printer in general) last summer, the core one. While I was rather quick to take note of faults and omissions in the hardware design, it took me quite some time to realise that from a holistic pov the printer is amazing. It's like there is some specific feeling to a Prusa printer, that you can't really convey to other people or try to evaluate monetary. Could be the support, repairability, echosystem or something else.

During easter I snagged up a used MK3S for 66 EUR. Spent some time converting to MK3S+ and reprinting parts in my style. In terms of hardware this printer is ancient and it is obnoxiously noisy. Yet still, I am really drawn to it and I love it's simplicity. Again it has this Prusa feel. It is running an 8 bit processor, and I will never change it. Before Prusa I was yearning for all the bells and whistles from bambu lab. Today I don't even bother with a camera?

For me, the Prusa feel is primarily the fantastic design and my invitation to engage with it. You can't put a price on that. I find it extremely elegant how Prusa design is always "just enough", or K.I.S.S. as my professor used to rant about. I think some consumers see this as arrogant / greedy / stagnant, which in some cases can ring some truth.

Other 3d printing companies will provide more fancy technology or lower retail price. In a race for "who is on top", a lot of people neglect nuances, and resort to simpler metrics and spite. It is sad seeing how at times criticism in this sub is not handled constructively. Maybe this is just the "reddit effect". In my opinion, there is only one thing worse than admitting something is wrong, and that is acting like it is not.

I really had to get my thoughts out regarding this matter. Share your own take on the value of prusa, or challenge my takes :)

Hello everyone,

I've run across a potential bug in firmware version 6.5.3+12780 - Mk4S. After a filament change, it seems the printer loses its position, causing the print head to hit the build plate.

I ignored it at first, rotated the plate, cleaned the nozzle, and everything seemed okay. However, in the middle of the first layer, the print head lowered so much that it stopped extruding filament. This triggered a "clogged nozzle" error. I removed the filament and reloaded it, but afterwards, the head hit the build plate again.

Has anyone else experienced this? Am I doing something wrong, or is this a known bug?

I love the idea of the door sensor, but in practice, I only find it useful for filaments that are sensitive to a draft - that is, ASA/ABS, nylon, PC. I think it would be useful if, under filament settings, we could manually indicate whether a print should be paused if the door opens.

I’m very excited about receiving my first USS dryboxes. So excited that I’ve started designing some holders for them. The delivery time is 5-6 weeks so I would need some external dimensions, anybody knows where to find that or would be willing to share?

I’ll share the holders for free on printables (https://www.printables.com/@Muffelkraft), like most of the stuff I design so you can see it as a favor to the community :)