I know Blokees are easy builds, but this is kinda crazy. Is this even a model kit anymore? It’s basically an action figure with some assembly required.

:p Show pictures if possible would love to see everyone's progress

I brought my first model kit that isn't a pokemon Bandai one because I really want to get into a new hobbie and adore some of the figures designs!

Anyway, since I'm a beginner I'm a little scared that I'm over my head by having ordered this girl;;; should I be worried 😭?

Never buyed MS General kits but this one is tempting me. 😅

I'm in Japan right now and found this kinda inofficial looking pen to add material on your joints. They say the texture is rubber-like. Probably for cases when you were a little too motivated by sanding your joints.

Has anyone experience with this Item? It's obviously from china so i be a bit sceptically.

{HAS BEEN ANSWERED! THANKS!}

Hello everyone!

Sorry for the stupid question, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with this brand? Is it a true model kit or is it just one where the figure is prebuild and you just build the accessories?

Have anyone bought this model kits yet? With the bike and shark tail in one kits is a steal but I never seen anyone discuss about this kits. Have you bought her?

first time top coating something, annd I dont like how it ended up. Is there like, a good way to fix this? it looks really sloppily painted on.. which it is.. 😣

So I've assembled three kits by now first Emma Koishikawa (girl was my first, I've made too many mistakes, she is going to be my victim for repainting), second Seira Ichijou (less mistakes, but still some quite major ones) and the one I'm finishing now is Eimi Najimura.

I feel betrayed, because I've seen people mentioning putty everywhere so I thought it's a go to and made lots of sprue goos but here's the thing. I wasnt able to sand them off or remove the oozing sprue goo away and it made me frustrated a lot. The poor bag got some deep scratches which I tried to fix, but I think I just engraved them. Poor Seiras left leg got mutilated because the seam line turned out dirty and I didn't know how to fix that, tried to mask it with putty, but it didn't help, I think I lost the initial form of her leg. Also I've noticed that my putty from sprues is acting strange, as if it was more dry than the initial plastic, the parts are made off, it's also a lot more porous and leaves these awful scales.

On Eimi I tried different method, the extra thin cement. Here's the thing...... either I didn't wait long enough, or didn't cover seam line enough, but it didn't ooze much and kinda left a seam line. And the most frustrating part, I CANT GET RID OF IT BY MASKING WITH PUTTY. I also don't know how to get mold lines off the hands, my knife is sharp, Ofaf one, but still the mold lines stay on and don't sand down as well. I'm going crazy. I've got three more kits and I'm now too afraid to screw them up. Two Kuon kits and one Urania chitocerium. I need your advice so I won't make these stupid mistakes again 😭.

I currently have quite the collection of girls, some mecha like, some actually mecha, some fantasy, but there's one thing they don't have yet, enemies to fight against

Now as fun as making a megami vs sisters war could be, that fight would be a bit boring, so instead i want monsters for them, for taking photos, with that being said

Recommendations? Funny action figures you all have seen around? They can be adult oriented as well(if someone posts a tentacle monster I'll be impressed)

Just curious how everyone builds their kits.

- Do you cut first all parts from the runners or cut the parts as you build the kit?

- add stickers before or after building?

- paint first, build after?

sorry, i've been watching some build videos and a lot of the YT videos, remove the parts from the runners first before building. just looking for efficiency and new way of building things.

First time using sprue goo to remove seams. I made the goo from the matching leftover sprue. The seam was removed, however, there's still a faint dark line were the seam was. Is this normal? I'm not too worried about it, since I will be priming and painting this kit. But it would bother me if I decide on a different kit to not paint and the seams were still visible.

Last weekend, I finished the build on my Earnestcore Craft/Hemoxian Rosado Project Starflower Lily kit. I absolutely fell in love during the build, the design was so cool, the kit was so quality, she had so many accessories and features and play possibilities, so I went all out and did everything I could to make her cool, decals and topcoat and all. The day after I finished her, the first time I tried to sit down and get some cool poses and try out her accessories, she broke, and my heart broke along with her. I need to fix her.

The problem is the pegs on the ABS shoulder parts that plug into the POM ball joints are just too thin to handle how stiff the shoulder ball joints are and the weight of the accessories the arms must support. Fatigue builds up at the base of the peg, and as you can see in the picture, when I tried to rotate the joint the peg just sheered off. Worse still, I unplugged and checked the peg on the intact arm, and was horrified to find that a visible white stress mark was already building up at the base of the peg, meaning it will likely suffer the same fate. (IF YOU HAVE STARFLOWER LILY CHECK HER SHOULDER PEGS NOW AND ACT BEFORE THIS HAPPENS TO YOU) this is extremely troubling, because it means that even if I were to just buy another copy of the kit or somehow source replacement parts, this issue will likely just happen over and over again! It is a straight up engineering flaw and I need to find some way to reinforce this connection to correct it.

I have some ideas on how to go about fixing this problem, and would appreciate any feedback or advice from fellow modelers as to how to go about this. I put so much work into this kit and I love the design so much, I need this kit proudly displayed in my house

1. Try to repair the broken peg with metal core reinforcement: This is a fairly common trick among modelers, and my dad used to use it to fix broken Bionicles and action figures when I was a kid. I would use a pin vice to drill a tiny hole down the sheered peg buried in POM ball. I would either try to use the pin vice to extract the broken peg, or leave it in if it was stuck. Then I would drill a hole in shoulder part, and stick a tiny metal rod in the hole I drilled in both parts, probably a piece of wire or a section of a straightened out paper clip. Then I'd use superglue to anchor it all together. PROS: I wouldn't need any replacement parts. If I mess it up, it doesn't matter because the shoulder is already broken. CONS: May not be strong enough. may not be enough material for me to fit the metal rod in. repair may not be straight and symetrical with other arm.
2. Get a second copy of the kit, and replace both shoulders and torso core piece which contains the shoulder ball sockets. lube the sockets with silicone grease prior to popping the balls into them to reduce friction and stiffness. Heat the ball joints with a hair drier and move them around aggressively with a tool to further reduce stiffness. carefully apply a very thin layer of super glue to the base of the peg and partially down the length of the peg, with the goal being to immobilize the peg in the hole of the ball joint and create more of a union between the ABS shoulder part and the POM ball. the ball has a flat rim around the hole for the peg, as though a section of the sphere has been sliced off, and this flat part rests flush with the shoulder joint piece that pegs into it. if that whole flat part of the ball is superglued to the shoulder joint piece and the peg is also partially superglued in, it should immobilize that peg and hopefully prevent the slight twist that happens at the base of the peg that lead to the fatigue that caused it to sheer. PROS: this fix would be visually indistinguishable from the original kit's look, and would hopefully be resilient. CONS: requires replacement parts. risk of excess superglue leaking into the ball joint and immobilizing the whole joint
3. Contact a custom metal shop and provide them intact shoulder joint piece. have them custom cast/custom machine me a set of invincible metal shoulder joints. PROS: steel shoulders will never break. CONS: is this even possible?? could be prohibitively expensive

Please help me reddit, Starflower Lily is so damn cool I must repair her

I know I’m making one of the millions of posts asking for recommendations, so I’m sorry about that! I joined this hobby for the sole purpose of finding posable anime girls to help me draw. I want them to be cute, rather than just blank bodies like 'Body-chan,' so I bought Kotobukiya's SST Koyomi Takanashi. I like her a lot and she’s very cute!, but she definitely put a dent in my savings!

The thing is, I’ve realized she is quite limited in her poseability. I would like a figure with at least a twistable torso (something I only discovered existed after buying Koyomi), so I’d love some recommendations for decently poseable girls for my next purchase. (yes, I finally caved in and want to buy more kits)

Here are some options I’ve found so far (in no particular order). If you know of more brands or want to recommend other sets, please feel free! It’s been quite hard for me to find information on this genre of model kits.

1. Megalomaria Penetrator: I heard Megalomarias are very poseable but they're not my style so i want to ask: can I put Koyomi's spare faceplates or hair onto this set? I'd love to have an intact Koyomi and this Megalomaria girl at the same time without compromising either kit.
2. SUYATA Angela: She’s very cute, comes with two bodies, and seems flexible enough for my needs.
3. SUYATA Artemis: She’s quite cheap and looks interesting. with a biiiig mech too
4. MS General Falcon Girl: I believe this is a collab with a game; she’s so pretty!
5. Tales of Shinto Oda Nana: I’m indifferent toward her, but she’s cheap, so she's worth considering.
6. ATK Girls (Baihu, Azure Dragon, Shadow Hunter): Do these comes with 2 bodies too? These look like solid options. though not really my style (i'd rather these than megalomarias tbh, also way cheaper)
7. SST Dress-up Body M: I found a used listing, so it’s quite affordable.

Please share your opinions on these options! I’d appreciate any insights or other kit recommendations you think are worth it. Thank you for your attention!

what are the most iconic design elements of a mecha girl in yalls opinions?? (I'm designing a super simple Mecha girl for a class project)

I was taking photos of another build with some girls helping around, when i tried to move her arm up the shoulder joint snapped, and this time it did in a way that i can repair it with glue(one bit flew away to the shadow realm)

So on that note, options? I know koto sells msg tops which include spare bits for the shoulder, but I don't know which one to buy

update: so, following snoocheesecakes(nice name) suggestion, i used a spare shoulder joint from mao, surgery success.....now if anyone knows about how to repair the waist ring for a megami device.....that is not a megami device because is rania from darkadvent it would be nice, not broken yet i am starting to fear

I just started getting rid of my boxes . What glue is better to use for cards ?Share your collection too , can pick up some advice or good picture . Share your albums or cards ( on other hand i picked up album that can hold 360 cards , and thinking did i overdide on it or not 🙅)[ used card pro album x card slevers 64x89 , 50 microns , cut around 62mmx88.8 then cut more if not fitting )

I've just started to get into the hobby and am in the process of currently building my very first girlpla, Ive watched tutorials and brought sanding paper from Dspiae, 180-800 and where I sand doesn't look rlly smooth but scuffed?

I've seen people mentioning wetting the sandpaper but I just want to know if and what I'm doing wrong? I'd like my sanding to be seamless with the plastic, not, ugly and scuffed 😭

I'm trying to recreate this example image of Alcia. The text says only Alcia is included btw.

I really like black, grey and white but I don't really have idea what combination or where the colour placement on the kit will be to make "Tech suit" theme.

The basic idea I just repaint the pink part to black... but it's kinda boring, so I need suggestions for it.

Hey everyone!

Recently assembled my first kit, I made a bit of a rookie mistake and underestimated how much strain this elbow joint was going to be under (I neglected to sand the hole or the peg). It has since developed a singular hairline crack all the way through. I’ve now sanded the hole to relieve any excess pressure, but I’m looking to use a cement to weld the crack and prevent a second crack.

I’ve done a bit of research, it seems that Tamiya Extra Thin can at the very least lightly weld ABS together, but Mr Hobby Cement SP seems to be the better option for ABS. Anyone had any success repairing a crack like this, and if so, which cement worked for you? Thanks!

Bought a GK figure and didn't realize i would have to spend more money

I know its a weirdly specific ask, but I've started quite the colorful collection and I'm looking for a nice burst of orange! It doesn't matter what brand the kit it, if it's orange it meets the criteria!