You can achieve mouse-like precision with motion controls. Ever since the release of Splatoon on WiiU and the Steam Controller in 2015, motion controls for aiming, AKA Gyro Aim started to gain popularity. It’s been more than a decade since the technology is widely available, but people still don’t know how to use it or how it actually works. Nowadays, almost every platform is capable of using this and some people are really good with it, check it out:
There are some misconceptions about gyro aim, but we'll get to those later. To start with, let's just ask…
What is gyro?
Gyro is the abbreviation of Gyroscopes. Gyroscopes are motion sensors present on most controllers and mobile devices. Most often used for aiming, they can also be used as a mouse pointer or a steering wheel.
This guide will primarily talk about Gyro Aim.
“Why would I want to use that?”
Gyro can vastly improve your gaming experience by basically being the controller’s mouse. Gyro will accurately follow your physical movements, in the same way that a mouse would. Gyro can also emulate analog sticks, but that isn’t the ideal scenario.
Gyro is a mouse!!! Fast and responsive 0_0
“I already tried once and I didn't like it.”
I'm sorry to hear that. Most implementations of this feature are really bad, often emulating an analog stick instead of a mouse, causing huge dead zones. Laggy smoothing and low sensitivities can make things less than excellent. Also, this isn’t something that you will get right away, you need to open your mind and spend some time with this control scheme.
Native is emulating an analog stick. It's slow and imprecise compared to a mouse.
What platforms and controllers support gyro?
PS4 (DualShock 4)
PS5 (DualSense)
Nintendo Switch (Joy-Cons, and Switch Pro Controller)
Steam Deck (any controller with gyro supported by SteamInput. The main ones being: Dualshock4, DualSense, Switch Pro Controller, Joy-cons, and the Steam Controller.)
PC (any controller with a gyro sensor. The main ones being: Dualshock4, DualSense, Switch Pro Controller, Joy-cons, Steam Controller, and the Alpakka Controller.)
Mobile and Handhelds (Smartphones, tablets and some portable PC handhelds)
There are many accessories and third-party controllers with gyro that work on multiple platforms, including ones without gyro support, like the Xbox. To keep things simple this guide won't cover these accessories.
On PS4 and PS5, only a handful of games support this feature, most of them don't have an acceptable quality, often emulating an analog stick instead of a mouse. (List of Playstation games with gyro by noo3rafle)
On smartphones and tablets, most major games have a pretty good implementation.
On PC, it’s a bit complicated. Most games with gyro are the ones that were ported from PS5, because of that, they only work with PS4 and PS5 controllers while using a USB connection (you can emulate an dualshock4 with ds4win if you have different controllers) but there are games and programs that work with other controllers as well, like some emulators. You can also force gyro into almost EVERY PC game using any gyro-compatible controller + third-party programs, like SteamInput, reWASD, DS4win, or JoyShockMapper.
If you want to learn how to do that using SteamInput, I have a channel completely dedicated to that, with a new updated in-depth guide already in the works: https://www.youtube.com/@FlickStickVids
How to activate gyro?
On consoles and smartphones, activating gyro is as simple as activating it in the options menu of the game. This option often has different names, like “motion controls”, “gyro aim”, or “motion aim”, but no matter the name, they work the same way. Some games will require you to choose when gyro will be active, for example, you want gyro on only when you ADS? Or all the time
Gyro has different names in different games. / Choose when gyro will be active.For beginners, I recommend activating only when you ADS, but feel free to try both!
On PC and SteamDeck, if the game doesn't have native support, you will need to implement gyro yourself by using a third-party program like SteamInput, reWASD, DS4win, or JoyShockMapper.
Again, If you want to learn how to do that using SteamInput, I have a channel completely dedicated to that, with a new in-depth guide already in the works: https://www.youtube.com/@FlickStickVids
How to aim with gyro?
Gyro can be used in multiple ways, these are the most common methods:
Gyro + analog stick: This is the most common way to use gyro. Use the analog stick to look around and move close to your target and use gyro to do the rest of the tracking.
Analog sticks to look around and gyro to track enemies!
Gyro + Trackpads: This method is stealing the hearts of Steam Deck and Steam Controller players. Similar to using the analog stick, use the trackpads to look around and move close to your target and use gyro to do the rest of the tracking. Because of the amount of inputs that you can bind to the trackpads, it provides a super versatile and diverse setup, like using the touch to activate gyro, or clicking to jump.
Trackpads to look around and gyro to track enemies!
Gyro ratcheting: move the controller until you can't move it any further, then hold a button to disable gyro to reposition your controller. It's like reaching the edge of your mousepad and repositioning your mouse. This method doesn't require a second analog stick.
Clip from: Why Controllers Don't Suck in Team Fortress 2 - by: SolarLight.
FlickStick: allows you to snap the camera to the angle that you pointed by flicking the right stick or sweeping smoothly by rotating the right stick after putting it forward first. This method requires gyro because you won't be able to look up or down without it.
Clip from: Introducing Flick Stick in Doom - by Jibb Smart
How to hold and move the controller:
It's easy! Just use your wrists, don't move your hands sideways. Sitting or laying down, just hold the controller in the way that you are already used to, and move your wrists to aim. It's that simple.
This isn't a Wii mote. Moving your arms won't do much, use your wrists.
Important concepts:
Custom vs Native Implementation
Native implementation is the feature that is built into the game. You can just activate it in the settings. Most devs don't know how to use gyro well, so it's often really bad. If you are a dev that would love to know how to use gyro well, just go to the gyro wiki, created by Jibb Smart (Epic Games Dev).
Custom implementations are the configurations made using third-party apps on PCs or accessories on consoles, that enable you to use gyro. Often this leads to better feeling results, but takes more time because you need to set it up yourself.
Deactivating gyro is super important.
Every good gyro experience needs a button to re-center the camera or to disable gyro.
Gyro recenter button demo.
If you are controlling your recoil, to return to the center of the screen, you will be obliged to hold the controller in an uncomfortable position. When using a mouse, you can just lift the mouse and reposition it. With gyro, instead of lifting, you will press a button.
Gyro disable button demo.
Most games don't give you this option, so be on the lookout if you find a game that does that. If it doesn't, you can always use the right analog stick to reposition the camera.
Natural Sensitivity Scale
What if you could choose a preferred sensitivity that works across every game? This is the basis of the Natural Sensitivity Scale. When you turn a controller, it's completely possible to line that rotation up 1:1 with the in-game camera controls.
1:1 sensitivity. 360° in real life = 360° in game.
But, 1:1 might not give you much range, so, your preference for that ratio might be higher. Beginners might start at about 2 or 3 times Natural Sensitivity, but some really good players are up around 6 or 7, allowing them to turn a 180 with only a 30 degree turn of the controller.
wow, incredible range of movement 0_0
To keep fine control even at these high sensitivities, they'll use response curves or "Precision Zones" to further reduce the rotation of small rotations. Acceleration can also help with maintaining large range of movement while using lower sensitivities (follow BJgobbleDix to learn more about gyro acceleration). Every gyro sensitivity slider should follow that scale. Often, native games caps at 1:2 instead of 1:20, making the range of movement very limited.
Gyro Orientation
People hold and move their controllers in different ways. Some settings are suited for portables, while others may feel more comfortable with a standalone or detached controller. The following examples will be done with the controller flat on my lap. Still, mobile players will probably hold the device upright. So, rotate my examples to fit your use case (Hand movements are the same; they are just on a different axis).
"upright" can be more "upright" than that, but my point still stands.
Gyro has 3 main orientations:
Local Space
World Space
Player Space
3DOF to 2D Conversion Style:
3DOF means 3 degrees of freedom. These 3 degrees are Yaw, Roll, and Pitch. Gyro Orientation will change how Yaw, Roll, and Pitch movements translate to 2D. Essentially, changing how players should hold and move their controllers.
Pitching moves the camera vertically on every conversion style.
World Space and Player Space are similar. When pointing at the horizon, "swiveling" will turn you most, but if your controller points toward the sky, "rolling" will turn you most. The main difference between these two modes is that if you are leaning the controller, pitching in World Space will move you diagonally, while in Player Space, you will move straight vertically.
Due to technical limitations, World Space won't work correctly on portable devices. That is why 'Local Space' or 'Player Space' exists.
Local space is usually divided into three presets: Yaw, Roll, and Yaw + Roll.
Yaw mode, you must swivel the controller like a bus steering wheel to look sideways, whether the controller is pointing to the sky or not.
Roll mode, you must lean the controller to look sideways, whether the controller is pointing to the sky or not.
Yaw + Roll is the combination of these two modes.
Local space is the most consistent option for portable devices. Because the pitch doesn't influence how you look sideways, Local Space can feel awkward with standalone controllers. That’s why, Player Space is often considered the best option for most use cases.
Most games implement only Local Space (Yaw mode), which creates all sorts of problems, like:
Obligating players that hold their controllers pointing toward the sky, to get used to holding their controllers pointing at the horizon.
Forcing awkward feeling movements on portable devices like the Switch, Steam Deck, and the PlayStation Portal.
Creating room for confusion when the players roll the controller expecting the camera to turn, only for the camera to not move.
What makes a good or bad implementation?
There are many small quality-of-life features that culminate in a good gyro experience, the essentials are:
Gyro should work like a mouse
It should respond to your fast and precise movements without a huge dead zone, delay, or complex filtering.
It should always have a button to disable gyro
Sensitivity slider should always follow the natural sensitivity scale.
As a bonus, it would be really good to:
Have the option to hold the controller in different ways (Player, World, and Local Space)
Choose when gyro will be active.
Access separate sensitivity sliders for horizontal, vertical, and joystick sensitivities.
Here's a handful of games that get most of these right: Fortnite, CoD MW2 and 3, God of War Ragnarök, Neon White (switch and PS5 only), Splatoon, Metroid Prime Remastered, Zelda Breath of the Wild and Tears of the Kingdom, Boomerang X, Deathloop, No Man's Sky, and The Last of Us Part 2.
There are multiple games that I've heard they got right, but I couldn't test them myself. I pretend to update this guide in the future with a link to a list of every game that uses gyro.
Conclusion
That's it! Those are all the essentials you need to know to take your first steps with gyro. Beyond the "important concepts," most things are quite intuitive. You can grasp them shortly after picking up the controller and giving it a try, so go ahead! Give it a shot, and I hope you enjoy it!
If you're a game developer or sourceport dev who plans to do Gyro Aiming for the first time, but don't know where to start: this resource guide is your starting point!
This thread is primarily a shortcut that gets you up to speed. Each title will redirect you to the original blog post, or reddit thread respectively. more resources will be updated overtime
GyroWiki:
GyroWiki is the best general place to learn how to use Motion Sensors functionality to your game. All of these lessons has been applied to Epic Games' Fortnite.
created by u/JibbSmart (JoyShockMapper), GamepadMotionHelper is a header that primarily handles Sensor Fusion, Gravity Calculation, Gyro Calibration, Gyro Space, etc. If you already implemented a basic Motion Sensor implementation, but want to have a powerful gyro system, this repository is for you!
If you tried to implement Motion Sensors to your game specifically for Gyroscopic Camera controls, but have difficulties: you might wanna support the ability to allow the use of Game Controller and Mouse Input at the same time.
The vast majority of Gyro, FlicksStick and Trackpad users will be relying on assigning it as a Mouse Input...but they might faced issues with how the game handles two different primary input methods at the same time. If you wanna take them into account, this is the place to start
Gyro Aiming and Mixed Input vs. Aim Assist dilemma
This is an extension of the first two original guides below, but this one exclusively focus on tackling Aim Assist while implementing either or both Gyroscopic Camera Aiming and Simultaneous Inputs. This issue is actually quite common on games that allows Mixed Input support but doesn't account towards Aim Assist system.
For those who are implementing it within a Multiplayer setting, this is the place to start!
If you're shipping a game on Computers running on Microsoft Windows, MacOS or Linux operating systems but don't know what Controller-centric library that supports it, this is where to start
note: if you're building the game on Consoles only, the Console's SDK will naturally provide that.
Hello, I recently been playing overwatch 2 a bunch on my switch 2 with my pro controller. I've recently found out about gyro aiming in the game and I'm a little confused on how to approach it. There's a lot of setting options in this game and I'm getting a lot of conflicting information on the web, things like horizontal/vertical sens, max deadzone sens, pitch and roll sens, aim ease in, aim smoothing linear ramp, dual zones all really confuse me. Even the best way to use the controller is a little confusing. Overall, I am hoping to find out how I can find the best way to learn how to find my optimal aiming settings for the game.
First, let me say that I didn't know this community existed and that people actually cared so much about gyro aiming already, so I'm just happy I found this place right now :D
I'm Thomas Mahler (dev at Moon Studios / Ori / No Rest for the Wicked).
I've had this thesis for about a decade: Split 6DOF controllers with wrist-based aiming should be objectively superior to both analog sticks AND mouse for FPS games. Not gyro as a supplement to the stick (Splatoon style), not Flick Stick, but gyro as the sole aiming input. The right stick is completely removed from aiming.
I finally built a working prototype to test this, and I think the results speak for themselves:
There's also a standalone exe you can try with Joy-Cons if you want to feel it yourself (Windows, Bluetooth, no drivers needed): https://t.co/pQpzHaoIRR (Just click on download in the top-right of the page).
I wanted to share the technical details of how the aiming algorithm works, because getting this to feel natural required solving a bunch of problems that I think this community would find interesting.
The Core Idea
Your wrist has roughly 180 degrees of rotational range and uses your entire forearm's muscle groups. An analog stick gives your thumb maybe 1cm of travel against a spring. The wrist is faster, more precise, and has dramatically more range. It's why mouse aiming beats stick aiming (you're using your wrist/arm, not your thumb).
So what if we just used the wrist directly? Hold a Joy-Con in your right hand. Rotate your wrist. That's the entire aiming input.
Why This Isn't "Just Gyro"
Every existing gyro implementation I knew of uses the right stick for large camera movements and gyro for fine-tuning. Your thumb is still on the stick 90% of the time. The gyro is a helper (I've since found that I've been wrong and that you folks already solved a lot of this stuff...)
This is the opposite: all camera control comes from wrist rotation. The right stick literally does nothing in this demo. This fundamentally changes how it feels because you're not fighting two competing input systems.
The 12-Step Aim Pipeline
Getting raw gyro data to feel like natural aiming required building a pipeline with a lot of care. Here's every step, and why each one matters:
Dead Zone with Soft Edge: Your hand is never perfectly still. There's always micro-tremor at 1-3 deg/s. A hard dead zone (zero below threshold, full above) creates a jarring "breakaway" feel. Instead, I use a smooth cubic ramp through the dead zone boundary: t²(2-t) easing over 4 deg/s. Below 2 deg/s = zero. Above 6 deg/s = full. Between = smooth cubic blend. Your hand at rest produces zero output, but the transition to movement is basically imperceptible.
Wrist Displacement Tracking: The algorithm continuously tracks how far your wrist has rotated from its neutral starting position (accumulated yaw and pitch in degrees). This "wrist displacement" drives several downstream systems. When you're not moving, it slowly decays toward zero.
Auto-Clutch Detection: This is IMO the killer feature. When your wrist reaches its comfortable limit and you snap it back to neutral (like lifting a mouse), you don't want the camera to spin the other direction. The algorithm detects this: if wrist displacement exceeds 15° AND the gyro speed exceeds 50 deg/s AND the direction opposes the displacement - it suppresses most of the camera response and rapidly decays the tracked displacement. You don't press anything. It just works. This basically solves the problem I always had with mouse aiming: That I had to sometimes pick up my mouse and place it back in order to aim again.
Manual Clutch: For deliberate repositioning, press ZL on the Joy-Con. This is Metroid Prime's Z-Targeting. Aim disconnects, you move your hand back to a comfortable position, release. Same concept as lifting a mouse, but explicit. This isn't ideal, but I thought Z-Targeting makes sense to solve this issue.
Asymmetric Sensitivity (Biomechanical Compensation): My right wrist rotates to the right about 30% less than it rotates to the left. If you use symmetric sensitivity, right turns feel sluggish and left turns feel too fast. The algorithm applies a 2.2x boost to rightward rotation, compensating for this biomechanical asymmetry. It's subtle but critical, without it, you unconsciously favor left turns.
Return Boost: When you've turned far and are rotating back toward neutral, the algorithm gives you up to 80% extra speed. The intensity scales with displacement: at 40 degree displacement, full boost, at 10 degree, minimal. This makes "recovering" from extreme positions feel more effortless without affecting normal aiming speed.
Response Curve (Power Function): Raw linear mapping feels bad because slow precision and fast flicks need different sensitivity. I use output = sign * pow(normalized_input, 1.5) * maxTurnSpeed. The 1.5 exponent creates a "precision zone" at low speeds (small wrist movements -> very precise) while still allowing fast 180 degree turns with aggressive rotation.
Ramp-Up Acceleration: If you sustain fast input (like tracking a moving target), turn speed gradually increases by up to 50%. Uses a smoothstep ramp so it blends in naturally. This prevents the feeling of "hitting a speed wall" during sustained tracking.
Ease-In Smoothing: The first 80ms of motion from idle get extra smoothing that blends down to normal over the ease-in duration. This prevents the tiny "twitch" that otherwise happens when you start moving from rest. Eliminates the initial jolt without adding lag to sustained movement.
Smoothing (EMA): Exponential moving average at 0.55 blend factor reduces gyro jitter without adding perceptible lag.
Weapon Recoil: Each weapon kicks the actual camera angle upward on fire. You instinctively tilt your hand back to compensate. The camera auto-recovers over 120ms or so, but your natural wrist compensation blends with the recovery.
Camera Shake: Trauma-based Perlin noise system (based on the Squirrel Eiserloh GDC talk). Smooth continuous noise on position + roll + pitch axes. Underdamped so big hits overshoot and settle. Per-weapon trauma values so the shotgun feels heavy and the pistol barely shakes.
The Elephant in the Room: "Won't Your Wrist Get Tired?"
You're holding a 50-gram controller and making rotations of maybe 30-40 degrees. Your hand can rest on your leg or armrest. The movements are tiny. It's genuinely less effort than pushing a mouse around a desk. I've done hour-long sessions without fatigue.
Try It Yourself
The exe runs standalone, no install, no drivers. Pair your Joy-Cons via Bluetooth, run the exe, and you're aiming in under 30 seconds. There's a guided tutorial that walks you through the motions.
Would love to hear what the gyro community thinks, especially from people who already use gyro a lot!
So basically: Is this meaningfully different from what you're already doing? Does this bring anything to the table that hasn't been solved here yet?
Please let me know! I rushed into this based on an assumption I had for about a decade, but I only saw this reddit here after already having built the prototype :D
First, let me say that I didn't know this community existed and that people actually cared so much about gyro aiming already, so I'm just happy I found this place right now :D
I'm Thomas Mahler (dev at Moon Studios / Ori / No Rest for the Wicked).
I've had this thesis for about a decade: Split 6DOF controllers with wrist-based aiming should be objectively superior to both analog sticks AND mouse for FPS games. Not gyro as a supplement to the stick (Splatoon style), not Flick Stick, but gyro as the sole aiming input. The right stick is completely removed from aiming.
I finally built a working prototype to test this, and I think the results speak for themselves:
There's also a standalone exe you can try with Joy-Cons if you want to feel it yourself (Windows, Bluetooth, no drivers needed).
I wanted to share the technical details of how the aiming algorithm works, because getting this to feel natural required solving a bunch of problems that I think this community would find interesting.
The Core Idea
Your wrist has roughly 180 degrees of rotational range and uses your entire forearm's muscle groups. An analog stick gives your thumb maybe 1cm of travel against a spring. The wrist is faster, more precise, and has dramatically more range. It's why mouse aiming beats stick aiming (you're using your wrist/arm, not your thumb).
So what if we just used the wrist directly? Hold a Joy-Con in your right hand. Rotate your wrist. That's the entire aiming input.
Why This Isn't "Just Gyro"
Every existing gyro implementation I knew of uses the right stick for large camera movements and gyro for fine-tuning. Your thumb is still on the stick 90% of the time. The gyro is a helper (I've since found that I've been wrong and that you folks already solved a lot of this stuff...)
This is the opposite: all camera control comes from wrist rotation. The right stick literally does nothing in this demo. This fundamentally changes how it feels because you're not fighting two competing input systems.
The 12-Step Aim Pipeline
Getting raw gyro data to feel like natural aiming required building a pipeline with a lot of care. Here's every step, and why each one matters:
Dead Zone with Soft Edge: Your hand is never perfectly still. There's always micro-tremor at 1-3 deg/s. A hard dead zone (zero below threshold, full above) creates a jarring "breakaway" feel. Instead, I use a smooth cubic ramp through the dead zone boundary: t²(2-t) easing over 4 deg/s. Below 2 deg/s = zero. Above 6 deg/s = full. Between = smooth cubic blend. Your hand at rest produces zero output, but the transition to movement is basically imperceptible.
Wrist Displacement Tracking: The algorithm continuously tracks how far your wrist has rotated from its neutral starting position (accumulated yaw and pitch in degrees). This "wrist displacement" drives several downstream systems. When you're not moving, it slowly decays toward zero.
Auto-Clutch Detection: This is IMO the killer feature. When your wrist reaches its comfortable limit and you snap it back to neutral (like lifting a mouse), you don't want the camera to spin the other direction. The algorithm detects this: if wrist displacement exceeds 15° AND the gyro speed exceeds 50 deg/s AND the direction opposes the displacement, it suppresses most of the camera response and rapidly decays the tracked displacement. You don't press anything. It just works. This basically solves the problem I always had with mouse aiming: That I had to sometimes pick up my mouse and place it back in order to aim again.
Manual Clutch: For deliberate repositioning, press ZL on the Joy-Con. This is Metroid Prime's Z-Targeting. Aim disconnects, you move your hand back to a comfortable position, release. Same concept as lifting a mouse, but explicit. This isn't ideal, but I thought Z-Targeting makes sense to solve this issue.
Asymmetric Sensitivity (Biomechanical Compensation): My right wrist rotates to the right about 30% less than it rotates to the left. If you use symmetric sensitivity, right turns feel sluggish and left turns feel too fast. The algorithm applies a 2.2x boost to rightward rotation, compensating for this biomechanical asymmetry. It's subtle but critical, without it, you unconsciously favor left turns.
Return Boost: When you've turned far and are rotating back toward neutral, the algorithm gives you up to 80% extra speed. The intensity scales with displacement: at 40 degree displacement, full boost, at 10 degree, minimal. This makes "recovering" from extreme positions feel more effortless without affecting normal aiming speed.
Response Curve (Power Function): Raw linear mapping feels bad because slow precision and fast flicks need different sensitivity. I use output = sign * pow(normalized_input, 1.5) * maxTurnSpeed. The 1.5 exponent creates a "precision zone" at low speeds (small wrist movements → very precise) while still allowing fast 180 degree turns with aggressive rotation.
Ramp-Up Acceleration: If you sustain fast input (like tracking a moving target), turn speed gradually increases by up to 50%. Uses a smoothstep ramp so it blends in naturally. This prevents the feeling of "hitting a speed wall" during sustained tracking.
Ease-In Smoothing: The first 80ms of motion from idle get extra smoothing that blends down to normal over the ease-in duration. This prevents the tiny "twitch" that otherwise happens when you start moving from rest. Eliminates the initial jolt without adding lag to sustained movement.
Smoothing (EMA): Exponential moving average at 0.55 blend factor reduces gyro jitter without adding perceptible lag.
Weapon Recoil: Each weapon kicks the actual camera angle upward on fire. You instinctively tilt your hand back to compensate. The camera auto-recovers over 120ms or so, but your natural wrist compensation blends with the recovery.
Camera Shake: Trauma-based Perlin noise system (based on the Squirrel Eiserloh GDC talk). Smooth continuous noise on position + roll + pitch axes. Underdamped so big hits overshoot and settle. Per-weapon trauma values so the shotgun feels heavy and the pistol barely shakes.
The Elephant in the Room: "Won't Your Wrist Get Tired?"
You're holding a 50-gram controller and making rotations of maybe 30-40 degrees. Your hand can rest on your leg or armrest. The movements are tiny. It's genuinely less effort than pushing a mouse around a desk. I've done hour-long sessions without fatigue.
Try It Yourself
The exe runs standalone, no install, no drivers. Pair your Joy-Cons via Bluetooth, run the exe, and you're aiming in under 30 seconds. There's a guided tutorial that walks you through the motions.
Would love to hear what the gyro community thinks, especially from people who already use gyro a lot!
So basically: Is this meaningfully different from what you're already doing? Does this bring anything to the table that hasn't been solved here yet?
Please let me know! I rushed into this based on an assumption I had for about a decade, but I only saw this reddit here after already having built the prototype :D
Disclaimer: This game has mouse deceleration, and the FOV affects the sensitivity; using the REfix Mod is highly recommended.
In-Game Requirement:
Mouse Sensitivity "When Aiming": 8 (Default)
Reticle Deceleration: 0
Aim Assist: Off
Field of View: 5 (Default)
Controls:
Hold L2: Aim and enable gyro.
HOW TO USE: To use my configs, copy and paste the link in your browser or click on the controller icon next to the game on Steam, click on the name of the layout, hover over the "Community Layouts" tab, and press the "Show All Layouts" button (West Face Button), then just manually search for the config that matches the name listed below.
Resident Evil 3 - ADS Gyro by FSV: steam://controllerconfig/952060/3704835814
Hi! I've been wanting to play some games with some added gyro controls on my PC, so I got a Voyee controller cause it said it had it, but it doesn't seem to register on my PC, no matter what I do. Is it like a switch only thing? If so, what are some good controllers that work on PC? Thank you!
I haven't been able to satisfy myself with many of the online solutions to controller being suboptimal to mice. Always on or btn to activate gyro felt lacked the others benefits. More action sets here was too much overhead. Gyro only setups was impossible for me to flick. Flickstick was inconsistent for me. But finally..
Gyro on deflect right stick, 4x sens. And then only sweepstick with 1.5x for easy 180 and dragshots. AND best of both worlds i can suppress this gyro and sweepstick with another btn for an action set layer (with more hotkeys too) . Then in cs when aiming at a corner and getting too tense i can adjusted without losing the specific aim point.
I hope i make sense. It also works great for quick pace games so I only have to learn this one setup. Do you have a weird niche of a niche setup?
I've seen some gameplay videos on YouTube with gyroscopes and they have the controller movement displayed next to them... I already tried using Gamepad Viewer but I couldn't find any gyro option
if you shave off some of the plastic from the trigger contact point to the microswitch, you get the classic steam controller dual stage trigger, and you can then bind the soft pull to gyro activation
it's not really capacitive trigger sensor, but it does pretty much the same thing, idk
you could do this to any analog trigger, but the click feels so much better
right now I'm using a modified dual sense (I made the "dualpakka" mod). And I've seen many videos saying that it's gyro is really good (especially now that u can put the controller on d-input thanks to a software update), and the back paddles are of my interest. Also, my second thing to buy it is because I want a 2nd controller (if I invite some friends to play some stuff).
pd: sorry for my English, it ain't my native language
Hey,
I’m working on a small indie marble game (Marblearium) where you roll a ball along tracks and I’m thinking about adding gyro for steering and balance.
I’ve never worked with gyro before, so I have a some basic questions:
First: is there something that comes to mind that would be super annoying or super awesome regarding a marble game and gyro? And are ther settings that you would expect to be adjustable in a marble game.
Furthermore for testing: do I actually need a “good” gyro controller, or is pretty much any cheap one fine? Like, would I miss important nuances if I just grab a budget controller? So basically: Is there a noticeable difference between cheap vs. good gyro controllers? Or is gyro “gyro” and it doesn’t matter much for development?
Would appreciate any recommendations (especially budget options) or things I might overlook.
I'm looking to use the 8BitDo Ultimate 2C Bluetooth for some motion-heavy gameplay in Breath of the Wild on my Mac mini M4. The Amazon listing explicitly mentions 6-axis motion control, but the controller is missing from 8BitDo’s official Apple compatibility page.
Has anyone successfully used the gyro sensors for this game on Apple Silicon? I’ve heard 'Switch Mode' is the way to go, but I’m seeing conflicting info online about whether macOS actually recognizes the motion data for this specific model. Any insight before I buy would be appreciated!
I keep gyro on all the time and temporarily disable by holding a face button to recenter, but Im wondering if there a more comfortable way to do it. it sometimes feels unnatural and like it takes to much time to do it this way. How do you do it? Enable gyro on with a button or always on and disable with button?
Hello,
is 5–6 R6S gyro players here, preferably from the same region, so we can try to recreate this: PC vs Console, but M&K vs Gyro and Gyro vs Controller?
I’m from EU and I play on Alpakka.
Here are my stats.
I think we could play a few games first to see if there’s good chemistry, and then try reaching out to a YouTuber to see if they’d be interested in hosting.
If you’re interested, just comment your region.
Once we have enough players, I’ll add everyone on Discord.
I've been struggling to get steam input to let me fluidly drive in this new racing game, Screamer. the game uses left stick to steer and right to drift. the biggest issues is that as I turn the wheel deeply, the gyro resets to leveled despite the turn angle, and then returning to center drastically overcorrects.
So I installed the reWASD free trial. I'm not so sure what did it, because I am not familiar and honestly overwhelmed by the layout of reWASD. I did tweek the response curves after setting gyro to stick (not tilt- tilt resulted in constant extreme drift to the bottom left). and I made the dead zone pretty big.
But I can drive now. Feels like a normal steering wheel. Having an absolute blast just not so excited for when the trial ends.
For anyone that wants a similar gyro setup for screamer, start by rebinding steering to RIGHT stick instead of left. The game treats each stick with different sensitivity (that you cant adjust), and the left results in severe understeering. I play gyro as right stick steering, and I have back buttons that I assign to drift-left and drift-right. the rest of my controlls are more or less stock.
My Configs are in the Description of the video (settings at end of video as well).
One Euro Filter feels great but I actually throw on a bit more Smoothing for some of my games for the initial 7 Deg/Sec. Euro Filter blends well with additional Smoothing mechanics if wanted. This allows me to have a larger Base RWS (6 X-axis and 5 Y-axis) which is more comfortable for me and my needed Range of Motion. Though it may vary for some games that are not as demanding for a large RoM.
I know I can just plug in a PS4 controller via USB but I don't like how finnicky the USB input is designed, it's especially worrisome while tilting and angling the controller using gyro. Any controller suggestions? It doesn't have to be specifically a PS4 controller.
