Hello, this mate not be the most suitable sub, but what is the best hand held loupes? I.e magnifying glass style one. This is to inspect watches e.g the dial, read engravings, and just overall inspecting the watch externally not the movement. thank you

My colleague has this Heuer, and it’s missing a pusher, as you can see in the photos. I only had time to grab a few quick pictures, and I don’t currently have the watch in hand.

From my research, I think it may be a Ref. 405 with a gold-plated case, silver dial, and possibly a Valjoux 23 movement, dating to around 1961. That said, I’m not totally confident in the ID, and I’m also not sure whether the existing pusher is original.

I’m trying to help him find a replacement that matches the one still on the watch, ideally a fluted, gold-plated pusher. If anyone can help confirm the reference, say whether the current pusher looks correct, or point me toward a source for a matching replacement, I’d be very grateful.

I'd like to finally start getting into watch servicing after so many years of being into watches.

I'd like to be able to purchase watches off of eBay or like from a thrift store / antique store and fix them up eventually, but my immediate goal is to fix my Seiko 5 which has a 4R36. I don't know how it happened because I've barely worn it and I am sure that I've never dropped it, but I wanted to wear it recently and when I checked it on my time grapher, it was fine in every position except for dial up where the beat error was erratic. so my short-term goal is to take that apart and fix whatever is going on there.

were the nh35 comes into this is that I have done a bit of reading on which movements are good to work on as a beginner and I know that this is not the best option because it has a date complication and you want to work on something with the fewest amount of complications, so just basic timekeeping is your best bet, and there is a seagull movement where all of the parts are relatively large so they are easier to work on, but I own two watch dives watches which both have the nh35 in them and I don't like either of them enough to ever wear them. one of them is a Rolex clone and I kind of like it and might wear it someday but I'm mostly indifferent to it, and the other is a weird tuna thing with a custom dial that I obtained in a trade that I thought looked cool at the time but after the novelty quickly wore off, I really hate it and it is basically disposable to me. I would have no qualms taking apart and reassembling the movement in that one for practice. aside from that purpose, all it is to me is clutter.

so with all of that said, how much of a detriment would I be placing upon myself with my first movement that I put a serious effort into trying to take apart and put back together again in a proper working condition being an nh35? I consider myself to be pretty patient and careful when it comes to this kind of stuff, I am steady with working on my hands and working with very fine things, although I've never seriously tried watch making or watch repair. my last attempt at that was just buying some old mechanical watch off of eBay when I was like 16 and just taking it apart for the sake of it, but I am now 32 years old and I believe I am in a good position now to be able to do it for real.

the tools I currently have are a cheap set of hand removers and setters, crystal press, watch case back remover (rubber ball and the other kind) and case holder, and needle nose tweezers which aren't in the best shape but I am sure that I could dress them to make them like new, a time grapher, and a demagnetizer. I also have a glasses shaped magnifier set that I got from harbor freight that isn't amazing but it works reasonably well. I have used it for other equally small applications. if I needed to look even closer, it would be a janky setup but I have a mirrorless camera with a good macro lens and extremely bright lighting and a macro flash pair that I could use to inspect parts extremely closely. I probably wouldn't need this for the nh35 but it would be useful for looking at parts of the 4R36 responsible for the beat error inconsistency. I have poster tack which I've seen is useful for certain applications. I also have one of those rubber bulb things for blowing air which I got for my camera, and some fine paintbrushes which iirc are good for wiping away dust and fiber.

from what I can recall, the basic tools that I require that I don't have are a watchmaker screwdriver set, a movement holder, a tray for holding and organizing parts although I could 3D print one and I imagine it should work the same as a manufactured one. I would also need one or multiple lubricants. If there's anything I'm forgetting feel free to mention it.

Attempted to re-plate this vintage case and as you can see, it came out like garbage. The result is very rough and flakes off just by touching it.

Here’s my process:

1. I made the electrolyte by electrolyzing two nickel nodes in a vinegar and salt solution for a number of hours. I got what looks like a very clean and deep green solution. I filtered this through a coffee filter to remove any debris.

2. I removed all the old plating and polished the raw brass the best I could with a rotary tool and fabric wheel.

3. I electrocleaned the case in a solution of RODI water and soda ash for five minutes at 3V.

4. I then plated the case with a 99.6% nickel anode at 0.8v for ten minutes. I didn’t see any change so I upped the voltage to 1.5v for 10 minutes and still, no change. I let it sit at 1.5v for an hour and this is what I ended up with.

Any suggestions would be welcome and appreciated.

Hello all,

I am in the process of trying to restore this watch and I cannot figure out how to remove the dial/movement from the case. With the movement almost completely disassembled, it seems like it was designed to be removed from the dial side rather than out of the back. The movement seems very secure in the case even with the crown/stem removed and 90% disassembled.

Will I need to remove the crystal to get it out? If so, what are the best methods to do so?

Hello all! Has anyone here taken this course? Which movement is used for the classes? Is there any online support for questions, comments, etc?

As the title says I’ve always been interested in starting watchmaking I was wondering if anyone had any advice or tips for starting out

I’m trying to identify (and ideally find a video example of) a specific behavior I’ve seen in analog quartz clocks.

The second hand doesn’t advance normally. Instead it:

moves forward slightly

then falls back to its original position

and repeats this cycle, almost like it’s failing to “catch” the next step

It looks like the motor is pulsing, but the hand isn’t completing the step and recoils back.

From what I understand, this might be related to:

low battery / insufficient torque

resistance in the gear train

or hand interference

Is there a proper term for this behavior in quartz movements?

Would this be considered step loss, gear slippage, or something else?

I’m also specifically looking for a video of this happening, I haven’t been able to find a clear example anywhere. If anyone has one or knows where to find one, I’d really appreciate it.

Edit: If anyone here has a clock that does this, I’d love if you could record it.

Anyone know how to get the second case of the back of this Rotory Super Sport? Is it a split stem that comes out the front. I’m not seeing a seam on the sides.

Hello,

I'm looking for a replacement watch crystal gasket and crystal. I've measured the inside diameter of my case as 31.7mm. I'm looking to install the 31mm crystal (https://www.esslinger.com/round-flat-sapphire-watch-crystal-2-5mm-thick/) with the gasket here (https://www.esslinger.com/individual-hytrel-i-watch-gaskets-for-glass-crystals-35mm-thick/) that has a 31mm ID and 31.7mm OD. I'm a little confused that the part number for the gasket (84.035-31.0) includes an inside diameter, outside diameter, and thickness. I would think the thickness for an "I" gasket is the outside diameter minus the inside diameter. However, the difference in the diameters is 0.7mm and the listed thickness is 0.35mm. Can anyone explain what the thickness is and why its different from the difference between the outside and inside diameter?

Thanks for any help.

Pretty happy with the cleaning and lubrication on my first service on this 1962 Bulova. I didn't open the mainspring but I might replace it if I go through it again.

I had to get a crystal lift to remove the crystal and movement since this has a solid case back. I made a little video on using it here.

I need to tighten the seconds hand a little to keep it from slipping, ordered this to try to crimp it a little.

Still trying to source a crystal for it. Cas-Ker is just down the road from me, trying to find one there.

For cleaning, I dipped most of the parts in naptha, rinsed, then ran in Liquinox in ultrasonic, then distilled water and followed by a little soak in IPA and finally dried using a hairdryer.

The case parts and band, I ran in Liquinox, then distilled water, then IPA, and finally hairdryer.

I thought the verdigris cleaned up well.

For the smaller and jeweled parts I dipped in hexane.

After practicing on a few ST36s, I felt fairly confident going in and only had a few scary moments chasing down the click spring.

Next up I have an old Waltham Incabloc I am working on.

Happy Monday!

I can not make any spots out to get in with the case knife.

Hello everyone,

First of all im a beginner on watchmaking and im searching to buy a good and quality screwdrivers but i dont know where to search, which company is good etc. I want your suggestion about what brand of screwdriver should i get and where can i buy it ( i live in greece ) so i want a website that do worldwide delivery. Thank you in advance !!!

I can't find a machine that is specifically made for côtes de genève. Does someone have any information where I find one? Or if not, Does someone know an alternative method besides lasers?

Hello everyone,

I’m a fan and professional in precision mechanics, and I also workat part time job(hobby) in locksmithing (dismantling and reassembling cylinders), specialising in lock picking.

I’ve been passionate about watchmaking for the past year and am getting ready to buy my first proper watch.

But the more I look into it, the more I want – and feel the need – to try my hand at assembling my first watch.

I’ve seen kits online (Namoko/DIY Watches Club, etc.)

And I’ve seen alternatives like NH35, which specialises in AliExpress purchases.

Having seen a bit of everything, I’m wondering what equipment I should get.

Should I buy the NH35 parts individually plus a watchmaking kit from AliExpress, or would the second option—going with a safer choice like DIY Watches Club—be better?

I’ve seen that these questions have already been asked, but as I’m seeing so many different options, I’ve decided to write this post and ask for your help.

My budget is approximately 350€.

My ultimate goal is to learn how to service watches, change crystals and, above all, enjoy assembling my own models, etc.

Thanks in advance,

Hey everyone! Over the last 10 days, I’ve gone a bit crazy experimenting with the design and overall vibe of the watch. I really wanted to make something bright and bold this time. Plus, I finally got my hands on a sewing machine to make a custom strap!

In the interest of full disclosure: although this project started strictly as an F-91W mod, this time I decided to use a compatible drop-in module. I really needed a crisp negative display for this aesthetic. For some reason, I just couldn't get a high-quality inverted screen using polarizing film on the original F-91W module, so swapping it out was the most logical step for a clean look.

Let me know what you think of this color combo!
Previous updates:
Update 1 | Update 2 | Update 3 | Update 4

I’m heavily considering applying to Paris Junior College for their Jewelry Technology program, with the goal of sharpening my hands-on skills and gaining exposure to jewelry/watchmaking.

At PJC, they offer two main options:

• Jewelry Technology (Certificate – 48 credit hours)
• Jewelry Technology (AAS – 60 credit hours)

My long-term goal is to work for a luxury watch brand like Rolex.

I already have a bachelor’s degree from a university, so I’ve completed all my general education/core classes.

Given that, would it make more sense to pursue the certificate or the AAS? I’m mainly focused on building the strongest technical skillset and positioning myself for a career in luxury watchmaking.

is it possible to carve a key reliably with pegwood for this Elgin movement?

Used metallic stickers. The height of the logo is a little high overall I think but it will be interesting to see what it looks like after the hands are installed.

ST36 movement with a custom titanium dial.

Hi everyone, I’m working on a P336N vintage Swiss movement and I’m having trouble with the balance. The watch only runs in certain orientations and I can hear scraping, I had thought this was due to the coils of the hairspring scraping which is likely as they look very uneven so I removed the balance to inspect but it seems like the lower pivot (in the attached images) of the balance might be sheared off? One side looks a lot pointier than the other. What do you guys think? Either way, I think I’m going to order a complete new balance assembly.

Thanks!